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I have a GE refrigerator Model # XXXXX BS that was purchased in 2005. Recently it has started clicking periodically throughout the day for long periods of time (greater than 10 minutes). Refrigerator and freezer seem to be functioning fine for now. Also, for several years the icemaker hasn't dispensed ice but will make the ice and water dispenser doesn't function. When I click on any of the water or ice buttons to dispense the light bulb flickers in the dispenser.1) Should I be concerned with the clicking sounds?2) Any ideas on the icemaker not dispensing?3) Water not dispensing?4) Approximately how much will it cost for repairs the above repairs? 5) Researching a service agreement with Sears for $250 that says they will cover up to $500 in parts and labor for up to 12 months. If it isn't repairable they will give you up to $500 for a comparable replacement. Have you heard of this?
Optional Information: Make: GE Model: GSL25IFRF BS
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX X will be assisting you.You can make the repair yourself for about $150 in parts or less. I can help you discover the cause of the problem and yes you should absolutely be concerned about the clicking.Are you with the unit today and would you like to try? Also if you have a volt meter that would be handy or if you know someone that does, I will be here all day.Let me know,Barry
Yes I am at home today. I believe have a volt meter, but I'll have to go see if I can find it and if it still functions.
Ok take your time,, no rushing we have all day. It will not take very long. I think you have 2 seperate problems so lets take them one at a time until thats complete and then tackle the second.Please remove the kick panel at the bottom of the doors or the hinge cover at the top of the freezer door. There are wires with a connector coming from the freezer door. Take that connector apart and see if thats not all corroded. If it is then unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and clean that connector up. Also look for a broken wire there, it is a very common place for a wire to seperated from the connector. That should take care of the problem. If not then we will move on to the other problem which will all be the main control board where you will need a meter.Let me know,Barry
No corrosion found. Next step?
Get something to remove 1/4 inch screws and your meter. I am going to need to study the main board diagram for a few minutes. There are a lot of wires in there and I will need to set up a picture of where to test at. There is an 8 x 10 inch panel on the back outside of your refrigerator. Take that panel off and I should be getting close to being done.Barry
The 7.5" x 15" panel is removed and shows a computer like board.
Ignore the small red arrow. The blue arrow is the correct connector. From left to right you will need to test hole 1,2,3.Set your meter above 13 volts DC. You will make 2 checks. Hole 2 is hot. The other 2 will be negative.Hole 2 to hole 3. What is the voltage?Hole 2 to hole 1. What is the voltage?CLICK TO ENLARGEBarry G40643.751084375
Hole 2 to 3 is 8.5 volts.Hole 2 to 1 is 9 volts.
There is your problem with the dispenser. That should be just over 13 volts and I bet if you leave that open you will find the clicking is coming from that same board as well. That clicking is going to be one of those small black square boxes on that board. And will most likely be the one thats actually running the compressor.I would wait until it started clicking before I purchased the board just to be positive that your compressor is not actually generating the sound but I am pretty sure that is what you will find since the low voltage is not there. The part number for that main board is WR55X10942. If you shop around you can find that for around $120.00 or less.If you have questions please ask,Barry
The ice and water dispenser hasn't worked for probably about 4 years. I understand that the problem with the ice and water dispenser not working is that it isn't getting enough voltage, but why would that suddenly cause it to start clicking alot? And is the clicking just a problem for the dispenser? If the clicking is just with the dispenser is there a problem just ignoring it or some how disable the dispenser to stop the clicking?
You have 2 different voltages on that main board basically. The low voltage and high. The low voltage has been bad for a while now the high voltage is going. The problem was just the dispenser or low voltage. I believe now you have a bigger problem which is going to affect the cooling of your refrigerator. Thats what I was getting at. The clicking is a very important sign especially if its coming from the rear of the refrigerator. Like I said, just wait and see to identify the location of the clicking. Have you a main board sourced in your home town, it is probably the most common replacement part sold and if you have an appliance parts store they will have it.Barry
Have you heard anything about those Sears Service Agreements that I mentioned? I'm kind of leary. I hate to go spend $120 to replace that part and have something else go wrong in a few months. That happened last year to me with my riding lawn mower.Thanks for all of your help.
You are most welcome. I am glad you chose our service.I have not had any direct experience with that agreement. I can tell you this from direct experience. Their service company is one of the highest priced in the nation. They charge for everything they could possibly think of and make up. I am surprised there is not a charge for making up charges. I could not imagine that they would do anything except make money from you. The quality of they work they do is usually right on, and they do cover warrantys. I would really read into that before I decided.Back to your GE there are 2 places on the rear that will click. If the board is clicking replace the board. They do fail and the compressor failures are rare. If the compressor is clicking start looking for a replacement refrigerator. Although its rare that part of the unit fails, when they do its usually not good. I think thats a good decision. Its what I would do.Barry
Home Appliance Technician
27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I II.