Hi, and thank you for useing Just Answer;
By your question it sounds like the thermo protection is causing your problem. It's getting to hot and cutting out your machine. You could have "lack of air flow" which is common. Please check and make sure everything is clean. Also since air flow is a big issue, your blower motor could be getting weak. Meaning it's not moving enough air as it once did. A sign of going bad. If all of what I mention is fine, then this thermo protection is bad. If this is the case, you'll have to replace it. The factories today that makes these things started to install them for protection. Both for the unit and your home. It prevents it from becoming to hot and starting a fire. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. Thanks
not the thermizer or the pcb then
Hi, and thank you for using Just Answer; What you described as a problem would be what I suggested to look at first. Please check your air filters if you use them with this unit. It could something as simple as that for your thermo protection to cut out. Once you eliminated these two items, then we could move on. What you are thinking, as a problem it's not unheard of but least likely to go out and have your unit work like what you are describing. Gary
hi i had chance to look this weekend, the boiler was clean, i checked all connections seem ok, there is two air pipes one comes from the fan then they are joined and then go to the air pressure switch, i blew through these tubes and into the air pressure switch the boiler ran for ages, then cut out to reset, i blew through the pressure switch again it then ran for ages,???? the thermo protection can i bypass it by joining the wires to see if this is faulty ????
Hi and thank you for using Just Answer. Per your question the "thermo protection" switch depending on the kind works two ways. 1) it completes a circuit allowing the unit to run, and when it reaches temp it will break contact much like a circuit breaker. 2) it is the opposite of of one and shutting it down. If you can hook a voltage meter to the connecting wires without bypassing the switch. then start your unit. With meter at hand you will very quickly fine out which type of thermo switch you have. Depending on that, you can bypass the thermo switch or just remove a wire. Please note: for diagnosing purpose only should you do this. Removing a switch such as this permanently is not recommended or suggested by this expert. These switches do go bad. Once you verify it's the switch get it replaced. These are in there for your protection and the protection of others. Gary
what did you think about the air pressure switch as after blowing in it it noticeably run for longer ?
if i check and see if the two wires are live on start up that will tell me what type of switch it is ?
Here's what I would do to eliminate the air switch. Get two thermometer that you can place into the tubs. Place them in a position so that you can see them clearly Run your unit and watch everything. When your blower comes on, you should get an even temp inside of those pipes. If you don't that means the air switch isn't allowing full and even air flow. It will be common for one pipe to run a little cooler than the other because air like water and electricity takes the least restricted flow. If you get a noticeable temp difference between the two pipes, then your air switch is broke and your thermo switch is doing it's job as intended. Gary
As for your second question, yes
i only have one pipe from fan to the air switch, to night i found out my thermo switch is live from start up i made a link connector between the two wires and bypassed the switch the heating ran with no problems ,