No! I wasn't asking what voltage. I meant that the voltage was present.
Michael you will have to do better than this. Nothing you have said so far suggests that you are familiar with this particular machine. I hope I am wrong.
Following wires though components is a good general approach, but I don't need an expert to tell me that. Without a wiring diagram or any idea which sensors allow the heater to come on and with wires disappearing into various boxes it is not a practical approach.
I told you in the original description about the state of the 2 rear thermal cut-outs. They are in circuit in an 'on' state. So they are not preventing the heater from working. I also gave you the resistance reading for the front sensor (What exactly does this do?) and also details of the sensor below the condenser which appeared to be working normally. What other sensors are there that control the dryer heater operation? If you can't convince me that you know anything about this particular machine I will have to ask someone else.
What a pleasure to talk to someone who knows what they are talking about!
Thanks I will order it. As it will be several days how do I get back to this page to reply to you? I will leave it open but if I lose it?
Front NTC replaced. The new resistance reading shows that the original was reading very high. Still showing error code 73 and no heating. However if I disconnect the sensor below the condenser and try for errors I get E72 which is the correct error for a fault there. As both sensors control the same heating circuit it suggests to me that the CPU is at least still capable of detecting and differentiating between problems outside itself. So it possibly might not be damaged. When the lower sensor is reconnected the error still shows up as E72. Is it possible that the CPU needs to be reset to clear errors after repairs are made? I did switch the dial to OFF to any programme and back to off as you suggested but this did not reset the error.
Thanks. So no reset necessary. I deliberately provoked the sensor below the condenser fault because I knew the error code which was correctly reported. I get the door open error code as you said but this is not overwritten when the machine is restarted so the CPU is presumably happy that the front NTC sensor is within range. However despite apparently acting normally the machine does not dry. I had a problem with the fan seizing a few years ago causing the back detecting sensors to cut off the electricity but this part appears to be working OK now. Am I missing something?
Machine drains properly and then fan comes on.
(My memory of my previous problems when the fan had seized was that it was when the fan came on that the heater circuity was switched on. I had 240v showing both sides of the element until this moment and then zero at one end allowing current to pass. Then the heater went off again when the detectors showed too big a heat build up in the duct.) I have no problems with this part of the circuitry at the moment.
Currently the problem is that the heater never switches on at any point in the cycle despite every appearance of normality.
Thanks for persevering. Yes I am measuring to earth. So when 240 volts both sides obviously no connection to neutral and no current flow.
Sorry to be a bit thick but how do I put the machine into diagnostics?
Yes! It comes on.
Sorry. I meant it was getting hot. I'll try what you suggest and report back
You got a reply from me before I picked up your question. I am not sure what happened to it. Yes the fan is working until the heater cuts out because the duct gets too hot and the middle sensor cuts off the supply. It does not overwrite E41.
It's 8 clicks further on to start the diagnostic drying.
I let it run for about 10-15 mins until the middle sensor cut out as the duct became too hot.
I presume the reset from diagnostic is just to go to off on the dial and then to any programme and then off again as before.
I am currently timed drying for 10 minutes. On turn on any water drains from the tub and then a small amount goes along the clear plastic tube to the condenser. The drum turns slowly and then after several moments the fan starts and the heater should come on but it does not!
Perhaps 9 from off as one click has already been made to get into diagnostic mode.
I'll try 20mins now and report back. Once again thanks.
Good. Funny if you reply and I answer not having noticed another response I don't see my reply in the chain.
As I wrote in my hidden reply all in order at the moment as the time was the key. I had not realised that the last 10 mins was cold air. I hope not to bother you again. Once again many thanks.