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Techdesk
Techdesk, Service Engineer
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 16407
Experience:  Whitegoods engineer working for a multibranded national company in the UK
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Hi Ive just replaced the energy regulator switch in my hotpoint

Resolved Question:

Hi' I've just replaced the energy regulator switch in my hotpoint BU82SS/s oven, prior to starting out I drew a map but now i cant find it and dont know which wire goes where.
In other words I need to know which colour wire goes to which terminal
Please Help
Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Gary replied 3 years ago.

I have a basic schematic but since the powers that control this website won't let us send or receive email addresses, I won't be able to send it to you so I will try to give you the information I have. I will use the standard markings that are on most controls.

Selector Switch

BK=Bake

BR=Broil

L1=Incoming power line 1

N=neutral or ground

PL=Pilot light (indicator lite)

Thermostat

L2=incoming power line 2

#2=Broil

#3=Bake

The BK and BR go from the selector to the appropriate elements

L1 is incoming power from one side of 230V terminal block

N goes to the neutral connection on terminal block

P goes to the indicator light that shows the oven is on.

L2 is incoming power to the thermostat and is the other side of the 230v terminal block

#2 on thermostat goes to the other side of the Broil element

#3 on thermostat goes to the other side of the Bake element

 

I hope this helps. If you need anything else, please let me know. I wish you the best

 

Gary

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks Gary' but what I need to know is which colour goes to which terminal on the switch.

The Hotpoint part number for the switch is C00270067 and it has 8 terminals.

There are 7 wires going to this switch, I can not recall which terminals 3 of these wires go to,

These 3 wires are colours are RED, WHITE and BLACK piggy backing on BLACK.

The 4 available terminals are coded S1, P2, 2 and 4 .

So I have 3 free wires and 4 free terminals.

The ? is which colour wire goes to which terminal.

 

Regards John

 

 

 

 

Expert:  Gary replied 3 years ago.
Hi John,

I'm sorry this is taking so long .... I just wanted to inform you that I haven't forgotten about you and I need a little more time. I should be with you here again later. Thanks for your understanding

Gary
Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
Sorry to butt in on the question, but I see you've been waiting 3 days for an answer to your question.

Do you still require help with this?

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi


Yes I still require help With this .


As stated this is a Hotpoint Bu82SS/2 Double Oven.


 


 


Thanks

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
Thanks for that.

Is this the regulator for the grill?

Thanks

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Yes

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
Thanks for that.

The wiring diagram shows me the following.

P1 - Red wire
P2 - 2 Black wires
2 - White wire
4 - not shown on diagram
4a - Yellow wire
S1 - 2 Red wires
S2 - Yellow wire

This is for the BU82 model.
Check your model number, if it's the BU82-2 then the wiring is different.

Hope it helps
Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi,


My Model is the BU82SS/2

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
OK, you didn't post that earlier, you posted BU82SS/s
I had a feeling that this was wrong.

I'll dig up the wiring diagram and go through it, see if I can work out the wiring for your machine.

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
OK, for your model the diagram shows the following.

P1 - Single Red (links to the Top oven switch
P2 - Double Black
2 - White
4 - Double Black
4a - Yellow, links to Top oven switch
4b - Blue
S1 - Double Red
S2 - Yellow, goes to cooling fan.

This are 9 connections on this model, you mentioned there was only 8, with 7 wires.

It seems neither diagram fully agrees with what you on your machine.

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi,


Yes there are 9 connections if You include the two at the front selector part of the switch , I now have everything wired as You suggested,


But the left side of the grill is now heating when the selector is set to 0 (ie off).


I am sure the Connections You have given are correct.


When installing the regulator I did not remove the Red and Yellow link wires from the top oven switch so I know for sure that these are correct and I have followed the connections You have given.


Have I now got another problem ?.

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
If it's working when turned off then the wiring has to be wrong somewhere.

What wire do you have on 2? Where does it go to?
What wire do you have on 4a? Where does it go to?

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi,


There is a White wire on terminal 2 and it goes into loom with other wires leading down into oven.


There is a Yellow wire on terminal 4a which goes to third terminal from front on left side of Top Oven switch.


 


Thanks

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
OK, for some reason, your regulator isn't switching P1 to 2 off.

What wires are P1?

You will need to trace the wires to where they go, unless I know where it ends up at, I can't tell if it's right or wrong.

The white wire should go to the element.
Has any work been done on the element?

What was the original fault on the machine?

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi,


P1 is a single red wire which goes to second terminal from front on left side of oven switch.


The white wires goes to grill element.


No work has been done on the element.


The original fault was grill was not coming on hence regulator replacement.


 


Thanks

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
OK, the wiring diagram shows 2 wires on P1.
1 goes to terminal 1 of the top oven switch and the other goes to an indicator lamp.

1 wire is red and the one to the lamp is blue.

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

My apologies yes P1 consists of 2 spades Red which goes to oven switch and blue which goes to indicator lamp and 4b.


 


Thanks

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
OK, if all the other wiring is as it should be, it's suggesting a wiring loom fault.

Do you have, and can you use, a multimeter?

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi,


Yes I have a Multimeter.


What do You suggest ?.

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
Isolate the power to the appliance.
Turn the controls to off.

Take the wires off of P1 and 2

Hook the multimeter leads to P1 and 2.
Set the meter for continuity or buzzer.

Turn the grill switch on.

Do you get continuity when on?
Turn the switch off.
Does it now break the circuit?

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi, I seem to have continuity whether the switch is On or Off.


 


Thanks

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
You have a faulty regulator.

It should go open circuit.

One half of the element has a permanent neutral and if the live doesn't switch off, the element will stay on.

Hope this helps
Thanks
Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
Just wondered if you would be requiring more help on this.

I assume you'll be obtaining another regulator.
If so, the wiring details I've posted should help with the installation.

Good luck with the repair.

Thanks
Techdesk, Service Engineer
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 16407
Experience: Whitegoods engineer working for a multibranded national company in the UK
Techdesk and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi,


Yes I've ordered a replacement Regulator.


Will let You know how I get on and will rate Your answer which I'm sure is 100%. Many thanks for Your patience to date.


 


Regards

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
No problem.

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

You were correct, I have replaced the Regulator and the Grill now works perfectly. Unfortunately some genius turned on the power to the Oven when it was part stripped causing a short circuit and now I have to replace the Timer/Programmer as well. Many Thanks for Your assistance.


 


Regards

Expert:  Techdesk replied 3 years ago.
Hiya,
You can get the oven to work without the timer, if it's no longer working.
If this is the case, let me know and I can help on that too.
You would need to open a new question on it though.

Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi


I've ordered a new Timer, but Yes the Oven still work's.


I have rated your answer as excellent.


If I need further assistance I will be in touch.


 


Thanks


 

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