Hi, welcome to Just answer
How old is it ?
about 6 years
and can you please check the model number again... it seems incorrect
ok, as the water stays cold the problem is with the heating element of the unit that is bad and will need replacement
a new one will cost you around £90
ahhhh that was replaced a couple of months back as the seal had started leaking..... I wasn't to impressed witht he engineer who came out to do it that's why I'm trying this route...
it was the whole unit which included a new heater element
OK, you have already cleaned the sump and the everything else has been done but as the water is still cold I believe it is heating element nothing else
Just backing up a bit, the usual cycle starts with a drain-fill-rinse-drain-fill-then hot wash..... so the water not heating at that time is to be expected isn't it?
ate the initial rinse that is...
the step that it seems to be hanging at is the initial rinse and it is like the water pressure / pump rate isn't increasing and spinning the spray arms around
Basically the cycle starts with fill-rinse-drain-fill- rinse-drain
if the pump rate isn't increasing then the circulation pump should be checked
how do I do that?
please check the model number from the door
I am still not unable to find that here
SGS43T02GB/06 is the full number
sorry I may have put a letter o rather than a number 0 the first time
this model does not have a circulation pump
can you test the motor with a multimeter ?
more likely it is the motor that is at fault
yes I can test with meter
please unplug the dishwasher
and then disconnect the motor from the unit
then test it with a multimeter
the multimeter should be set to its lowest setting and then Touch the multimeter probes to the empty motor terminals; a resistance reading of zero, or close to zero, indicates a functional motor. After you've checked the motor for resistance, test the ground connection.
To test the ground connection...first touch one probe to the bare metal motor housing and the other to each of the terminals; the multimeter shouldn't read resistance for these tests.
if the motor fails any of these tests then it should be replaced
are you doing it ?
Yeah looks to be fine, I get zero from terminal 1 (ground) to case and zero between 2 & 3 (motor coils) with a build up to 57ohms between either of the coil connections and ground after a few seconds
can you test the heater as well
okay will do
ok let me know how it goes
25 ohms across the outside terminals which I presume are the heating element ends.
with the element disconnected from the appliance and the meter set to its lowest setting ... right ?
yeah, I pulled of the green and white spade terminal
the checked across the connections on the unit
and the meter was set to lowest ?
it's an auto scaling one
sealey TA 202
ok great but I just want to know if it was tested on the lowest setting
if it was and both the motor & heater tests fine then it is the power module of the unit that is bad and will need replacement
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