Hi, my name is ***** ***** I have been in the home improvement and repair field for 20 years. I will be very glad to help you today. The issue could be a simple fix. The evaporator is cooled and a fan blows the cool air from the cooled metal of the evaporator into the fridge/freezer compartment. As the evaporator collects a little bit of ice on it it becomes less and less effective. It has a small heater that prevents ice buildup. If the ice gets too much for the small heater then the heater cannot melt off all the ice. This fault can be caused by the door of the fridge not being closed all the way or if items in the freezer compartment block the incoming cool air. All that you will have to do is unplug the power and leave the doors open for at least 24 hours then clean the inside especially the fridge floor where the condensate drain is. There is the possibility that it is another fault but usually a good defrosting and cleaning will correct the fault.
Hi, the fridge inside and the freezer are completely dry. It has been off since 9:30 this morning and it does exactly the same thing. Tries to start and stops and does that every couple of minutes. How much longer shall I leave it off in order to make sure that it is what you suggest?
You would have to leave it off for at least 24 hours and it is very important to leave the doors open during that time. That is the easiest way to see if this is the issue....not the quickest, but the easiest. The quickest way would require a little surgery.
Hi, didn't work unfortunately... it does exactly the same thing!
The fridge gets power and the light at the selected temperature setting is blinking constantly. After a few seconds the motor tries to start it seems to work for 1-2 seconds and then it stops. When it stops the blinking frequency of the light resets (it is off for a few moments) and then starts blinking again.
Any suggestions please?
I am sorry for that. Well now I do believe that we are looking at a failing compressor or a bad circuit board. Let's hope it is the board since the compressor replacement isn't a DIY project unless you have some refrigeration equipment. The circuit board is behind the light housing. Are you able to inspect the board for any obvious wear like scald marks?
I removed the housing and it looks intact but on the other hand from my experience if electronics fail they don't really show it that well... Is there any way that I can be more sure that it is actually the PCB?
Unplug the machine
Take the connector block off of the X1 connection.
With the connector disconnected, link pins 3 and 4 together (a small piece of wire will do it).
Insulate it and loosely reassemble everything so it's safe.
Plug in the machine.
Does the compressor run?
Leave it for an hour or so, does the machine cool down?
This is only a test. If it does work then the PCB is the fault. If it does not cool then the compressor is at fault.
Hi, I tried it and the compressor made a funny noise. Then I had it completely disconnected and the compressor was working for a little bit and the freezer reached temperature and the fridge was a little bit cooler and it stopped again. You think that the PCB has gone bad?
I think there is a compressor problem. Is the compressor really hot? You are very welcome by the way. I am not thinking that the board is bad at this point. It is looking more like there is a blockage in the freon line for the compressor or the compressor itself is failed.
I was hoping it was the board though. That is something you can take care of yourself. The compressor is a different story. That you need refrigeration equipment to replace and repair.
The compressor when I took it out was really really hot but I guess it is supposed to get that hot in order to evaporate the water which gathers on the container on top of it right? Would you suggest to get a new board? The board is £80 and the call out charge of an engineer is £65...
By took it out by the way I mean the fridge from the cabinet that it is based and looked at the back I didn't take the compressor out :)
No. So sorry but the compressor is the issue not the board. I was certainly wanting it to be the board but it is not. The evaporator has a heater on it but is separate from the compressor completely. The compressor being really hot is bad news. There is a blockage in the refrigeration line or the compressor has failed. I am sorry to say that it cannot be repaired as a DIY project since the repair will require refrigeration equipment.
Hi I left the fridge on all night with the sensor disconnected from the PCB and it has reached and maintained temperature both in the freezer and fridge compartment... Shall I leave the connector disconnected and use the fridge as is? It will get really cold I guess right? The temperature sensor is located within the fridge container isn't it? or within the PCB?
Ok so bypassing as directed it got cold? That is great! You will still have to replace the board but the compressor is fine. I misunderstood what the result of the test was. No engineer for you!
I haven't heard from you. Was the information I provided helpful?