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Great, thanks for replying.
Is it possible to test continuity from inside the front door? There are a bunch of wires coming up from the bottom - do you know if there are two that are attached to these terminals?
I already have access inside the door, but there's a bit more work to get inside the base. Does it need to be pulled right out and tipped over to get access to the heater?
Great - I'll have a look in the next few days, as soon as I get the chance.
For some reason I've just received the following email from JustAnswer:
We're very sorry you're unhappy with the answer you received to your Appliance question from Rob on JustAnswer. We noticed that you did not rate your service and instead, you requested and received a refund.
I just wanted to let you know that I have not requested a refund, so there is something wrong with your system. I've done nothing, and was just waiting until I get the time to look at it properly.
Thanks for your patience. I finally got the time to throw myself on the kitchen floor.
Crikey, access is crazy on this thing. I had to take the right-side panel off, and could just get a screwdriver in to prise off one terminal from the heater. Then measured it and it was 24 Ohms, across the two big terminals that stick out of the white bit. Does this mean the heater's OK?
I also took out the Power Module PCB, as that was in front of me. I've attached some photos of one of the relays. Would you agree that the relay has got very hot and cooked its own solder joint?
The white connector below it in the photo is where the thick wires connect, so I'm guessing that it's very likely this is for the heater.
This PCB is about £140, so I'm going to try replacing the relay itself. I could possibly make it work by just resoldering the joint, but I want it to last. I'll see if I can get a higher-rated one that hopefully won't be getting as hot.
I'd be grateful if you could confirm that the heater resistance sounds right, and that I'm heading in a sensible direction.
Thank you very much.
Can I ask you to take a moment and rate my responses so far? Please use the smiley faces which you should now see. Please remember you are rating me personally, not the website or the problems you have had with this machine.This will not close your question and you can still come back to me if you need more helpThanksRob
Great, I'll give that a go and see what happens. I've found a near-equivalent relay on ebay for a huge £3.52 including delivery (item 271177873177), so hopefully this job isn't going to be as bad for the wallet as I feared.
It's indentical ratings but is SPDT instead of SPST, but the NO pin is in the right place, so after snipping off the NC leg it should fit.
I'll click the "big grin" thing as soon as it's working. I'm very grateful for the pointers, as I didn't have a clue where to start really.
Hello. I'm still waiting for the relay to be delivered, after the ebay seller managed to send me a 12V version instead of the 9V one ordered.
Looking at it and thinking some more about it, I don't think the relay is actually the problem - I think the PCB track is too thin for the current, so the track has acted like a 9A fuse and has popped, right at the narrowest point where the pad meets the track.
I'm still going to replace the relay anyway, but will scrape off all the track coating and overlay it with soldered on copper wire all the way from the relay to the heater connector.
Hopefully it will be sorted within a week - the house is full of dishwasher parts at the moment, so I can't wait to fix it.