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Daniel T.
Daniel T., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 15322
Experience:  20+ yrs. experience in white goods repair. NVQ Level 2 electronics manufacturers training courses.
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Hi, I have a Bosch Wash & Dry Avantixx (just out of 2 year

Resolved Question:

Hi,
I have a Bosch Wash & Dry Avantixx (just out of 2 year warranty!) with a drier problem.
Wash & spin programs are fine, but the dry cycle stops after a few minutes on every time setting and auto. The display freezes at the time remaining - no fault indication or code. The door still opens after 1 minute. No problem re-setting from this state back to normal. It's as if the dry cycle has ended prematurely.
Any clues please?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

Can you post the model number please.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Nothing on the front..

Pulled it out and a paper label with:

E-NR.WVD24460GB/05

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

Ok if you are looking at fixing yourself what you need to do is remove the top and from there you will see the metal dryer chamber on the top.

On there is a thermostat. You need to check this and see if its faulty.
Also on the right hand side is the NTC (temperture sensor) Again check the wires and test the NTC with a multi meter. It should give a reading in Kohms.

If thats ok then at the back is the water valve. On there are 3 coils. One will be the dryer coil. You need to test this as well and this should read about 3.6 Kohms.

Check them out and see what you find first and let me know.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Ok thanks - will do some checks and get back to you.

Early in it's life (30 months) for a failure of this nature?

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

No worries just let me know what you find.

As to it breaking down within 30 months you wont have thought it on a Bosch as they are ment to be the better end of the market. But im afraid you do get the odd ones going down.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

I think messages may have overlapped!

Anyways, I'll have to get a torx set from work tomorrow to get the top off, so I'll get back to you then.

Thanks so far

Brian

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

No worries, Speak tomorrow.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi Daniel,

Are you available for more advice please?

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Yeap im here still.

How have you got on with it?

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Ok... a fair amount of additional information. Do you want it in bits or shall I write a short story?

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

You can just type it up and i will have a read of it.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

I ran some further tests on it last night, and the problem is'nt as bad when set to 'Gentle dry'. It didn't stop at all on a 30 minute program, and lasted an hour on a 2 hour program.

Assumption is that the problem is therefore something to do with running at high temperature.

Opened up tonight. The temperature switch in series with the heating coil is a short circuit when cold - expected?

I couldn't physically meter the NTC resistance. Am I correct in assuming this is a failsafe and not a control device wired to the control board?

I ran the drier on 'intensive dry', and after a short while the heater and fan started. It ran for about a minute and then the machine stopped again.

Although the chamber was very hot, the thermal switch was still a short circuit.

My assumption is that the switch is faulty and not switching off the heater, and the NTC is coming in when over temperature to close down the drier?

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

Ok the NTC is a resistor which the resistance changes when it gets hot. So the control board know how hot it is in there by the NTC so its not a fail safe device the thermostat on the top is the fail save as thats a one shot so if it overheats it cuts out and doesnt reset itself.

But as the gentle dry worked then the NTC will probberly be fine as if it was faulty it will affect that cycle as well.

Did you check the water valve at the back. As the dryer needs to put water in for it to work so worth checking this if you have a meter. It should be about 3.6 Kohms.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Yes... wasn't sure which was which, but the 2 black ones were 3.7K and the white one was 5.2K

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

Ok thats fine.

Might be worth stripping the condesner chamber down on this. Remove the back as well and then from there you will see a plastic chamber going from the dryer chamber on top down to the left hand side down to the bottom. Give this a good clean out and then see how it goes from there.

If its still doing it then its possibley a control unit fault as everything else on there checks out ok im afraid.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Ok thanks, ***** ***** it a go. My money is on the board then... I'm lucky that way!

I'll let you know the cleaning out results.

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

No worries, fingers crossed for you the condesner clean out does the trick.

Regards
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi Daniel,

An update for you:

The back isn't removeable on this model, just a circular plate for access to the belt and little else I'm afraid. Unless I'm missing a point, it looks like a major dismantling job to access or remove the plastic chamber - it's as if the whole washer was assembled then the case wrapped around it.

Anyways, I removed the fan on the top to at least have a look, and there was a web of hair and fibres partially blocking the chamber.

So cleaned out and far as I could, and retried with fingers crossed... it only ran on intensive dry for a few minutes again, so no change there.

Thinks... if there was an obstruction at the top, then there's likely to be one at the bottom elbow that feeds into the drum. So fan off again, and using a wire/hook I managed to blindly drag out another clump of hair and fibre from the bottom of the chamber.

I tried running it again, and this time it lasted the 30 minute program time, for the first time in weeks.

I programmed it to run for 1 hour overnight, but discovered that it failed after 36 minutes when I checked this morning.

I've tried the 30 minute program again tonight, and it's back to failing after a few minutes again.

So... thoughts please?

I guess I need to get it fully cleaned out whatever, but what would be the best way to do so? I thought about blasting it with a pressure water jet to save the dismantling job.

Or do you think this is all a red herring and a control board fault is still more likely?

Expert:  Daniel T. replied 2 years ago.
Hi

Ok if you have the small oval back cover then you need to remove the front panel to get better access.

Remove the plastic trim on the front at the bottom and remove the screws holding the front panel on.
Then open the door and remove the door seal clamp and unlip the door seal and remove the door lock.
Then pull out the soap drawer and remove the screw in the bottom right corner and then you can remove the front panel.

This may give better access to the bottom of the chamber.

Or you can try the pressure water as it will just blast the fluff into the tub so make sure you check the filter after each wash and remove the fluff from there.

But if after all that its still the same then its looking like the electronics here.

Regards
Daniel T., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 15322
Experience: 20+ yrs. experience in white goods repair. NVQ Level 2 electronics manufacturers training courses.
Daniel T. and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Result!

I blasted out the chamber with a small bore rubber tube connected to a garden hose to get right to the bottom, set the 1 minute drain program, then emptied the rest using the bottom drain hose. What came out looked like soup.

It then ran on high temp for an hour and a half with no hassle.

So... learned a bit from that with your help thanks.

Though I'm surprised that if there was little or no airflow and the element/metal chamber overheats that the thermal switch doesn't trip first? Just to be padantic, I've tested the thermal switch in the oven and it does trip at 170 degrees. I guess the NTC has sensed a wrong temperature and closed the process down first.

Thanks again for your help - will leave feedback and hopefully no further questions!

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