Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
Nothing on the front..
Pulled it out and a paper label with:
Ok thanks - will do some checks and get back to you.
Early in it's life (30 months) for a failure of this nature?
I think messages may have overlapped!
Anyways, I'll have to get a torx set from work tomorrow to get the top off, so I'll get back to you then.
Thanks so far
Are you available for more advice please?
Ok... a fair amount of additional information. Do you want it in bits or shall I write a short story?
I ran some further tests on it last night, and the problem is'nt as bad when set to 'Gentle dry'. It didn't stop at all on a 30 minute program, and lasted an hour on a 2 hour program.
Assumption is that the problem is therefore something to do with running at high temperature.
Opened up tonight. The temperature switch in series with the heating coil is a short circuit when cold - expected?
I couldn't physically meter the NTC resistance. Am I correct in assuming this is a failsafe and not a control device wired to the control board?
I ran the drier on 'intensive dry', and after a short while the heater and fan started. It ran for about a minute and then the machine stopped again.
Although the chamber was very hot, the thermal switch was still a short circuit.
My assumption is that the switch is faulty and not switching off the heater, and the NTC is coming in when over temperature to close down the drier?
Yes... wasn't sure which was which, but the 2 black ones were 3.7K and the white one was 5.2K
Ok thanks, ***** ***** it a go. My money is on the board then... I'm lucky that way!
I'll let you know the cleaning out results.
An update for you:
The back isn't removeable on this model, just a circular plate for access to the belt and little else I'm afraid. Unless I'm missing a point, it looks like a major dismantling job to access or remove the plastic chamber - it's as if the whole washer was assembled then the case wrapped around it.
Anyways, I removed the fan on the top to at least have a look, and there was a web of hair and fibres partially blocking the chamber.
So cleaned out and far as I could, and retried with fingers crossed... it only ran on intensive dry for a few minutes again, so no change there.
Thinks... if there was an obstruction at the top, then there's likely to be one at the bottom elbow that feeds into the drum. So fan off again, and using a wire/hook I managed to blindly drag out another clump of hair and fibre from the bottom of the chamber.
I tried running it again, and this time it lasted the 30 minute program time, for the first time in weeks.
I programmed it to run for 1 hour overnight, but discovered that it failed after 36 minutes when I checked this morning.
I've tried the 30 minute program again tonight, and it's back to failing after a few minutes again.
So... thoughts please?
I guess I need to get it fully cleaned out whatever, but what would be the best way to do so? I thought about blasting it with a pressure water jet to save the dismantling job.
Or do you think this is all a red herring and a control board fault is still more likely?
I blasted out the chamber with a small bore rubber tube connected to a garden hose to get right to the bottom, set the 1 minute drain program, then emptied the rest using the bottom drain hose. What came out looked like soup.
It then ran on high temp for an hour and a half with no hassle.
So... learned a bit from that with your help thanks.
Though I'm surprised that if there was little or no airflow and the element/metal chamber overheats that the thermal switch doesn't trip first? Just to be padantic, I've tested the thermal switch in the oven and it does trip at 170 degrees. I guess the NTC has sensed a wrong temperature and closed the process down first.
Thanks again for your help - will leave feedback and hopefully no further questions!