Hello My name is Ian ~ I am not on the site constantly so please be patient whilst waiting for responses to you queries
I can help you with this but as you have requested Daniel I can opt out and let him take the question when he comes on the site, the choice is yours?
OK you say that you have continuity thro the valve what reading do you get?
What made you change the valve in the first place and are you ok to use a multimeter?
OK if you take off the connectors to this valve and stick the multimeter probes in the connector end what voltage do you have on start up of the appliance just after the first pump out right at the start of the program sequence?
Understand that, so you diagnosed that the valve was faulty by following instructions on the web, that's OK. What make of multimeter do you have ?
OK if you turn it I click to the right is that 600v the manual I have here is not very clear
Ok well just remember this, we have a potentially lethal voltage her so we are going to take it slowly, have you taken off the two wires to the new valve?
OK set the multimeter to 600v 1 click right and then (making sure that the probes are not touching) switch on the electric and start a program after a short burst of pump activity you should see a reading on the multimeter display ~ what is it?
OK is the valve buzzing?
OK forgot a section, unplug reconnect the valve and is the valve buzzing when you restart a program?
OK have you now got it letting in water?
OK you have the correct voltage going to the valve, now bearing in mind that the valve is an electro mechanical device once you have this voltage the valve seat lifts and lets water in, if no water is going in then either the valve is faulty or you have insufficient water pressure/no water pressure at the valve to supply the dishwasher. You should hear the valve buzz once voltage is supplied, if it doesn't then the valve is likely faulty. (yes even new ones can be faulty) So check that you have water to the valve screw on piece and listen for the buzz
Have you got enough cable on the valve to remove it from the back of the cabinet whilst still connected ?
Yes I understand - what I meant was can you removed the valve from the appliance with enough of its cable connected to allow you to reconnect the water supply from the tap?
OK disconnect the electric, then disconnect the inner side of the valve and hang it outside the appliance then connect the inlet water hose to the back. Be careful that non of the electric connectors can short out to the case, wrap them up in a towel or something. you should now have the inside part of the valve open, put a towel under it. Switch the appliance on and tell me if water comes out of the valve when you have a program going just after the pump out
have you a pair piece of cable with a plug on one end and do you have the ability to crimp a couple of push fit connectors on the other end?
OK you have to establish if this valve is faulty, this entails connecting up the + & - supply to the valve spade connectors and switching on the electric. Without putting you at risk I cant see a way of doing this other than by connecting up a flying lead and seeing if the valve works with a water supply. The reading of both resistance and voltage are correct but mechanically I cant confirm its operation without fully water testing it. If you have a washing machine with the same valve you could carefully change them over and see but otherwise you will have to make up a test lead
yes You could cut back the insulation and push it through the hole in the middle of the spade connector on the valve and then wrap insulation tape around it, then connect the water supply pipe to the screw end and turn the water on, then switch the electric on and see if water comes out of the valve
You can connect the wires either way around it doesn't mater
Well lets give it one more go before we give in
The appliance has a float in the base which is used to switch the appliance off in the event of a leak and a pressure switch in the side that measures the amount of water in to the appliance ~ however, if you have 240v at the valve then the valve should be letting in water irrespective of floats/pressure switches or anything else. Perhaps you might recheck the voltage at the valve terminals. Ian
The water pressure from the mains supply fills the tank, it is not sucked in.
OK have you cancelled the program by switching on and holding the program button in to clear the microprocessors memory?
OK well good luck, if you could rate my service to you I can close the job down on the system, this then allows you to come back to me at any time for further advice free of charge. Kindly select on of the smiley faces below ~ Well done we got there in the end ~ Ian
Would you kindly rate my service to you so that I can close down this job. Thanks ~ Ian