Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
The freezer on my Samsung rsg5x American style no longer freezes. The fridge works fine. I opened the back panels and checked the fuses; all was well. I also removed the bottom panel and removed dust buildup around the compressor and heat exchanger. None of this seems to have helped. The appliance is well away from the walls.
By 'x' I mean one of 'D, F, K, U, P or J' as is written on the back of the appliance. I'm not sure which one it actually is.
Hi, my name is ***** ***** I have been in the home improvement and repair field for 20 years. I will be very glad to help you today. Is the compressor cycling or is it on all the time?
When you had the back off, did you notice if the evaporator coils were iced up?
Hi. The compressor is on all the time right now because I have the freezer on emergency freeze (more in hope than expectation). There is no ice anywhere I can find.
There was some water on the floor of the freezer back end ie when I removed the bottom plate and looked around I saw the area beneath the fridge was dry and the area beneath the freezer was wet (a little). I dried it before plugging back into the mains
the insides ie heatsink, compressor and pipes were dusty but I cleaned them before reassembling.
I will go up and have a look at status now. Please bear with...
Will do. You will next want to check the evaporator coils also. To access you will want to remove the back panel in the freezer.
The compressor is on continously, the display says -16 but I have an electronic thermometer in there and it says -1
so some disagreement there
what are evaporator coils? What gets evaporated? Surely this is a closed system?
Do you mean the heat exchanger under the appliance? I had the back off earlier. I couldn't see much but it looked dusty (cleaned best I could) but no ice
I took the back off the control circuit board also and tested each fuse. All fine and no burned patches
The evaporator builds frost and the fan blows the cold air from the evaporator into the freezer then the evaporator heater melts the ice on the evaporator. When too much ice builds on the evaporator then the cooling is not sufficient.
it did smell a bit scorched mind - and I've been in electronics long enough to know what scorched resin smells like - but no evidence to be found
ok I understand.
so there's two parts; the heat exchanger underneath the thing that contains compressed coolant loosing heat and another that the air blows over that contains the evaporating coolant dropping in temperature
so it's the exchanger that gets cold you'd like me to inspect?
The problem may be the defrost timer. It may also be that it simply needs to be defrosted. If the door is left open too long or the seal on the door is not sealing well or if items in the freezer are blocking the vent then the evaporator will freeze beyond what the heater can defrost. This is likely the problem. To repair this you would defrost the appliance by unplugging and leaving the doors open for at least 24 hours then wipe the inside clean.
Yes the coils behind the freezer compartment or you could defrost it as described and get back to me tomorrow.
ok. I though it might be something like that so I have removed most things from the freezer - lucky it's winter, eh?
Yup, guess the back deck will have to be the fridge for now, eh?
The things in the fridge are ok though and I have nowhere to put them - freezer things are in a cold box outside in the cold so should be ok for 24 hours.
Or have a big dinner for the fam!
so you'd advise I keep the power on but open the freezer door overnight?
or turn power off overnight completely?
Oh no. Unplug it also.
things in fridge will prob be ok until morning; our flat is not very warm.
power off === unplug
leave it to sleep for a few hours then see if it improves
The defrost will not work if you do not empty it completely and leave the doors open with the power unplugged.
ok. I will take the draws out and unplug. Can I resume this chat tomorrow? I have to go to work but I'll be back in the evening. I'm more than happy to pay if I get my freezer back, honest!
For sure. That is what it's all about is you being satisfied. Chat with you then.
I can leave this window open meanwhile though I'll sleep the pc. Or log back in; whatever. OK Thanks for being up silly hour on Sunday and we'll talk tomorrow
Cheers ***** *****!
OK. I left it off overnight and the doors open. It has been turned back on with the turbo button pushed
The display says -25 but I measure the temperature inside as ~1.0C
our food has been put into neighbour's freezers or thrown away. Where do I go from here?
Is it time to call out an engineer?
That is disappointing. Compressor still running constantly also?
Hi. It does seem to be. Came up this morning and the display showed -14, the inside was around +1 or so and the fan next to the compressor was running at full speed as far as I could hear. I'm puzzled as to where the temp sensor the display uses is located. If I leave the door open it will correctly report +18, our kitchen ambient temperature (when turned back on I mean). Close and turn on the freezer and it will sink to -25 without actually cooling anything.
Also, if I turn it off and on again quickly the display will start showing the correct temperature so it works on startup. It will go down to -25 again in a few hours. Turn it off and on quickly again and it goes back to +1. It's like it takes one reading on startup and after that it's simulated or something.
Sorry we are so out of rhythm as far as being online at the same time. I will only be online for a short time right now but will be on for many hours in a couple hours from now. If you have a volt meter, do you get a voltage reading at the compressor?
No worries. I'm at work during the day so I can talk but not take measurements. I do have a multimeter; what should I be looking for? 255v? Or is it stepped down?
I am not exactly sure but the voltage will be printed on the rating plate. It will very likely not be exactly what is on the rating plate but looking for voltage the range printed on the plate is what you will be looking for. Check for signs of arching or overheating.
Hi and thanks for replying. I know about that; you hold the top two buttons down for a while. The display flashes and then you get diagnostics. Sadly all the segments look lit to me. Some seem a little brighter than others but there are none that are clearly on with the rest off. "88 88" is essentially what it looks like.
Now; I could fool myself that the first digit looks a bit like an "E" but really it's not clear and the error is supposed to be on the right anyway.
It seems to think all is well.