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George-Allsorts
George-Allsorts, Senior Appliance Technicial Manager
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1448
Experience:  A whitegoods technician with 30+ years service in Domestic Appliance Service & Repair, and General Mechanical & Electrical Repair
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I have a Zanussi ZCV662MXC cooker. This morning,

Customer Question

Hello,
I have a Zanussi ZCV662MXC cooker.
This morning, after grilling the breakfast I switched off the grill and some time after shut to top oven/grill door. Soon afterward the electric tripped.
The fuse box confirmed it was the cooker caused the trip. On opening the top oven/grill there was some heat indicating I shut the door too soon. I assumed it would reset (though no idea what switching is in the cooker) but it continues to trip the electric.
Can you please advise whether there's a reset switch on the cooker or I've blown it up!
Much appreciated.
Stewart
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Hello Stewart, my name is George..

Can you tell me if it is the whole cooker that is tripping the circuit, or just the top oven?

Kindly be patient whilst awaiting any responses from me as I'm not constantly available.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hello George,
It's the whole cooker.
When I switch the cooker on at the box the main switch trips.
The other items on the switch are fine with the cooker off.
Regards Stewart
Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
It is likely that you have a faulty Top-Oven / Grill element ... The element will be leaking electricity to earth and causing your consumer unit to trip.

Can you provide me with the Product code / PNC of the appliance?

How long have you had the appliance?

You will need that element tested / changed. Do you have the tools to do this?
2M Ohm Multi meter
Screwdrivers.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hello George,

The appliance is a Zanucci ZCV662MXC.

The product number###-##-####02

I'm not sure I see the logic. What's your thinking to derive that suggestion, other than I used the grill ?

If I remove the grill element, will the rest of the cooker work ?

Regards Stewart

Sorry George, the cookers about 18 months old.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Stewart, I can now have a look at the wiring diagram for that model...

Yes, that was the logic behind the sumission. (Last item used)

Don't remove the grill element, just test it. Are you capable of this? If you are, and you have the necessary tools, then I can advise you whilst you are doing it.

Logic:

Test the grill element since that was the last item used... Testing for earth leaks or S/C
Check that the selector switch has not shorted in the process of the the S/C if that is the case.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi George,

I don't have a multi-meter.

I'll see if I can borrow one. I'll let you know soonest.

Regards Stewart

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.

Ok Stewart... an addition to the logic is that the clock disables the Main Oven at startup until it is switched to manual.. just a thought

I will await your return

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok - I have a MM and screwdrivers.

Ready to start.

Would you like me to call you ? It maybe simpler/quicker.

Skype video may also be a solution or facetime ?

regards Stewart

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Ok Stewart, for safety sake, switch off at the consumer unit

Remove the screws from the rear panel of the appliance and carefully remove the panel...

Take pictures of wiring at the terminal block if you can

Inspect the terminal block for damage

(Take care not to pull the wires from the terminal block as you remove the back panel)

Let me know when you have done this
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

cooker pwer in

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Apologies for the multiple images.

There's was no obvious indication that it was importing correctly.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
You'll need to undo the white clip holding the mains cable and the screws down each side of the cooker's back panel to remove the back panel itself
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hello George,

Major development !

I switched the power back on and the cooker started up, clock.

I then switched on the rings and ovens to check they worked and again in died!

I probably switched too much on at the same time but you may need to do that when needed.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Stewart.. If you are not careful you will break something... If you have a fault, find the fault first, then try the appliance, but not before.. you could damage the clock/timer by doing so..

Is the power switched back off again and have you removed the rear panel?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

does the technical indicate an internal reset.

I assume it must have something in this area if it 'just worked'.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Do you wish to continue with my assistance?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes please

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Ok,at the top and the bottom of the top oven there is an element... both of those two elements need checking...

Take pictures of the wiring for each element before starting

I would check the bottom element first... take the wires off the element .. Put your multimeter onto 20M Ohms and and test between the earthplate and one of the tabs
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Can you indicate from the image I sent which are the elements

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Can you see the element that has only two orange wires (Half way up tthe appliance)?

That is the Top Oven Bottom Element

It would be better to get some closer picture of the wiring connections
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

do you mean these wires (red) ?

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
On that element.. take the wires off the element .. Put your multimeter onto 20M Ohms and and test between the earthplate (backplate of the element) and one of the tabs
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi George,

There are two points;

1. The MM goes upto 2M Ohm only, not 20.

2. At 2M these no response.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Then the Multimeter is not strong enough.. You will need a Multimeter with 20M Ohms or higher, or an insulation tester such as a Megger.

Efectively.. The insulation on either that bottom element, or the top element above it (it looks like orange, brown, black in the picture), or both, is breaking down.. You need to find out which.

You could replace the wires on the bottom element, then remove the wires from the element above, then switch on... If it trips the switch then you know it is not the top element

Remember to take photos of the wiring before you do so if you are going to do it.

I have to leave work now, but I'm taking my works mobile with me... You can contact me on that if you wish #07787182156, alternatively, I'll be back around 7pm
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok - that's unfortunate.

The initial mail said 2m ohm. I'll have to try and find an alternative.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
My typing error, my appologies.

However, you could try the alternative way suggested... but if you do, leave the clock alone.

Chat later
regards
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok - I'm out this evening anyway, so perhaps we'll call it a day.

Thanks for all your help George.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
You're very welcome Stewart.. I will be around tomorrow if you wish to carry on then..
Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Hello Stewart,

Have you managed to access a 20M Ohm multimeter or an Insulation tester, or have you done the elimination tests yet?

regards
George
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hello George,

My wife called someone out to fix it.

Thanks for your help again.

Regards Stewart

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Ok Stewart.. I would appreciate if you could please rate the assistance given to you here on Just Answer please..

Kind regards
George
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok - will do.

Expert:  George-Allsorts replied 1 year ago.
Thanks

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