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Dales-Electronic
Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1466
Experience:  I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
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Admiral fridge freezer not cooling the compressor is not cutting

Resolved Question:

Admiral fridge freezer not cooling the compressor is not cutting in but when i open the door the compressor cuts in and it starts cooling
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
Hello My name is Ian ~ I am not on the site constantly so please be patient whilst waiting for responses to you queries ~ can you give me the full model number please.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi yes its GC2224GEKB

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
OK are you sure that you are talking about compressor rather than the internal fan that comes on, this is controlled by the door switch rather than the compressor at the rear of the appliance?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

I believe its the compressor,the fans are already running they run all the time except they just blow out warm air,its only when I open the fridge door it kicks in and starts to start blowing cold air.I should mention its an American style side by side fridge freezer.

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
OK well we have a contradiction here, the compressor is controlled by the main pcb relays which have nothing to do with the door open/close operation. The internal fan however is ~ can you get around the back of the appliance and check that the compressor is actually working, when running the small pipe coming out of the compressor should be warm/hot the larger pipe cool/cold.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

ok it will take me a minute to take the panel off

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.

OK

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

ok the fans are running but the compressor is not door open or otherwise sorry my mistake

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
OK these units have a tendency to blow the main pcb or the connecting facia board. Are you able to use or have someone who can use a multimeter to check if you are getting any power to the compressor. Could you also just put your hand on the compressor and tell me if it is cold warm or hot.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

The compressor is just cool to the touch I would say room temperature,I have a multimeter but I`m no electrician.If you explain what to do i`m sure i could work it out

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.

OK firstly can you give me the model number of the compressor so that I can look up the wiring configuration.

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Yes no problem

TP144-JR-229-B8

TPG141OYXC

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
Could you also give me the manufacturer of the compressor please.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

There is no actual name.There is a picture of an American Indian figure head and its made in Brazil not sure if that helps.Also has the letters VDE underneath

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
That's fine its a Tecumseh TPG1410YXC leave it with me I will come back to you ~ if you take the electric cover off you will see a start relay and an overload assembly (a round thing that connects to the top pin of the compressor) With the power off remove the two cables from these (take note of which fits which part) connect you multimeter up to these connectors and select ac voltage (300v on most meters) on and switch on the electric ~ you should be getting around 220~240 volts ~ let me know what you see ~ Ian
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

OK thanks Ian,I have power to the overload assembly on both sides,there is no power to the compressor at all.

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.

OK you state that you have power to the overload are you testing between the plug on connector ie mains side or at the pin outlet side and where is your other probe going to? You should have power between the two cables going to the overload and the klaxon is that correct?

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

OK there is four wires two red on top and two white on the bottom connectors I`m pulling off the connectors and putting the probe into the actual plugs.Red probe into the Red connector and black probe into the white connector.On the right side I`m guessing this is the supply.I then put my probes on the actual overload pins on the left side which I`m also guessing was the output.I got 245 on both sides

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
Can you send me a picture of the relay and the overload please. According to the compressor manufacturer they are separate. The compressor has three pins coming out of it, common which the overload should connect to and start and run windings that the relay connects to. Can you confirm that the relay and overload are two separate items?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Yes they are definitely separate the relay is fixed to the side of the compressor with a bracket the overload is totally separate.I appreciate your patience on this.How do I send you a picture?

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
OK you should have cables going to the relay and the overload, take each one off the relay and overload and put one of you multimeter probes in one set and the other in the other set and confirm that you have 240v ish on start up. Not at the compressor side but at the supply side.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

OK there is only one connector on the relay so cant really get that wrong,same result no power.There is definitely power to the overload but not the relay.Is this not making sense?This a bit difficult to do really over the internet.

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.
How do you know you have power to the overload if you have one multimeter probe going to the overload where are you putting the other one?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

As mentioned previously there are four wires two red and two white,I was assuming red was positive and white was negative

Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 2 years ago.

OK I understand this but you need to have a negative to live or live to earth to get the multimeter to read 220-240 volts. You will get no reading if you just connect one probe wire to a live nor if you connect a probe wire to neutral. It must form a circuit to get a 220v reading hence my question.

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