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Dales-Electronic
Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1463
Experience:  I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
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I have replaced my element on my Rangemaster Toledo Cooker

Customer Question

I have replaced my element on my Rangemaster Toledo Cooker but it still doesn't work. The light comes on and the fan goes round but there is no heat. I have checked with a meter and the there seems to be no problem with the wiring. Could it be the thermostat? The other oven and grill is working fine.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have just checked and the light doesn't come on although the bulb is ok as I have tested it. There seems to be power going to the oven as the fan is working but nothing else.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Hello My name is Ian ~ I am not on the site constantly so please be patient whilst waiting for responses to you queries - could you let me have the model number please and I will have a look at the wiring diagram.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It says it is a Toledo 90 FSD DUAL FUEL ST. STEEL/CHR.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thank you Ian
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
The model number is ***** located on a label in one of the draw spaces, on the back or in an oven door space. The information you have given me just refers to a range of 90cm dual fuel cookers with many variations.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian, I have looked everywhere and I found a sticker near the bottom of the oven door but it says the same TOLEDO 90 FSD DUAL FUEL.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK lets try and do it without, is it the main fan oven that is not heating?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, The fan is spinning but no heat.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian, I have called Rangemaster and the model is TOLS90DFFSS/
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK is the back still off and can you see the heater contacts?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, They are a bit brown with heat but I have used a meter and there seems to be contact through the wires.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK can you tell me which meter you are using and are you familiar with taking ac measurements?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry Ian, I am not that clever. I have used a volts meter in the cont section and just checked there was a continuation of power going through.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK if you let me have the name and model number of the meter I will talk you through it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry Ian. The meter has no model. Its just a cheap meter I bought years go. It has three sockets. One for Cont, one for 3 Volts and one for 5 Volts. Sorry I know it doesn't help.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It checks bulbs, fuses and appliances.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK got you, well let me tell you how the thing works and then perhaps we can figure it out, power comes in, passes through a selector switch, then the timer, then a thermostat and then a thermal safety cut out which protects the oven from overheating and then to the element. First point of call is to check that the oven clock (timer) is set on manual (ie not timed or automatic) Come back to me when you have checked this.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have checked to make sure the timer is not on. The other oven works fine. I have checked the bulb in the oven and that doesn't work either. So the only power the oven is getting is to the fan. The red light comes on when you turn the switch to operate the oven.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have used the meter across the terminals at the rear of the switch and when you turn the switch it works ok.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ian, where can I find the thermostat and the thermal safety cut out
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Thermostat is connected to the thermostat knob at the front and you will need to take off the top cover to get at it, thermal safety cut out is either screwed to the cabinet side or on the top. What we need to establish is if you have power getting to the heater be in live or neutral. Once we have established this we can work out where the problem is. Hard to do without a multimeter.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, I know what you mean. Would it help if I went and bought one?
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Well you should be able to get one for about £15 which will do and be cheaper than an engineer and at least we will be sure of the voltages.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok Ian, Back in 30min
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK I am here until 1400 and then will be back at about 1700 if I miss you.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian, I have the Di-Log DL9206 Multimeter. Hope this is ok.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK black cable in common, red cable in v (right side) Select V next to off and you should have V ac in display if not press the blue button until you do.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok done
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It has auto at the top of display
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
switch on fan oven turn up the thermostat to maximum and measure the voltage across the two heater terminals/connectors that you replaced. keep your hands away from the metal probes and on the plastic - tell me what you get in the display?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian its 0.428
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
now take one of the probes and put it on the case of the cooker and the other on first one side of the element and then the other side of the element and tell me what you get this time?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
3.09 on the left and 3.08 on the right
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK can you advise if you put the probes in the mains block at the back that you actually get it registering around 240 volts
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Is that where the main power comes in?
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Yes
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
246
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK can you now keeping the probe on the positive connector (mains supply) place the other on one side of the element and tell me what you get?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
245 on both terminals
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK that tells us that we have a break of supply on the positive side of the circuit. Can you give me an email address and I will send you a picture of an item I want you to check.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
***@******.***
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
I have sent you an email of the thermal cut out, doesnt matter about the colour just a thing about the size of a pound coin and located somewhere near the fan assembly.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK I have to head off for a couple of hours will come back to you on my return.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian, I have found it.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK im back - set your multimeter to beep if you put the tips of the probes together you will get a tone if you have it on the correct setting when you're there come back to me
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
how do you get it to beep?
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Four clicks right from off left of Cap. You may have to press the blue button to get it to work but when its working you will have a permanent tone whilst the probes are together stopping when you pull them apart.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok at last. thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It has OL on the display
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Right now pull off the two connectors that are plugged into the thermal cut out noting their positions. Once done put a probe on each tag one each side and tell me if you get a beep.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No beep Ian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have taken the terminals off the other one and tested it and it beeped.
Is that what the problem is?
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
OK excellent - just to confirm, you see that you have one connector that is covered by a plastic sleeve and one that isn't - take the one that isnt and push it in the back of the sleeved one so that it is tight, then making sure that they are not anywhere near the cabinet switch on the oven and tell me if you now have heat, might take a couple of minutes. Then come back to me with the results.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian. I have heat in the oven.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
Excellent, well done, so you now have learned how to use a multimeter and can take voltage reading and do continuity checks in lesson one (laughs)
The part as we have discovered that is faulty is the thermal overload, its part number is ***** T093026 or just 093026 which you can get from your local supplier or using the following link on the internet -
http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?o=T093026&q=P093026
Once again well done. Would you now kindly rate the help given to you by using the star ratings above at the top of the page, once done all further questions are free of charge. Its been my pleasure to help you today and once again well done for sticking with it. Many thanks for using JustAnswer and see you next time around.
Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1463
Experience: I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
Dales-Electronic and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thank you so much for your help. You have saved me a fortune. I really appreciate it. Thanks again.
Expert:  Dales-Electronic replied 1 year ago.
A pleasure its been nice working with you. Get that cut out changed and I'll be around for Christmas Dinner. Take care and thanks for the rating _ Ian

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