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Daniel, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 15994
Experience:  20+ yrs. experience in white goods repair. NVQ Level 2 electronics manufacturers training courses.
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My Zanussi ZWD14270W1 washes OK, dryer runs but stays cold. Unplugged I have 62 ohms acr

Customer Question

My Zanussi ZWD14270W1 washes OK, dryer runs but stays cold. Unplugged I have 62 ohms across each heater pair giving 780 watts which sounds right. The 2 button press shows E41 - which may be due to my getting fed up with being locked out and removing the bar in the door latch plate!
The sensor at the heater terminal end of the duct shows white corrosion powder, one screw is rusted and I cannot undo either so far. No corrosion shows elsewhere. What should I try now?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
HiThe E41 code will be due to the door latch plate as its a door lock fault so just ingorne that code.As to the dryer fault when you set it going on dryer after a few minutes does the fan motor in the back right corner kick in?Regards
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes the fan does come on
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
Ok so if the fan comes on but theres no heat at all then what you need to check is the lower NTC sensor (temperature sensor).You need to remove the back panel of the washer and from there look to the left hand side and there you will see a black hose going from the tub to the plastic condenser chamber. In that hose is the NTC sensor. It will have to thin wires going to it. Check them wires as what happens a lot on these is the wires break out of the block. If the wire has broken then you need to repair it as you can pop the top of the block and push the wire back in.If the wires look ok then just give them a tug as they can break but still look like its attached.Check them first and see what you find and let me know.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Getting at the back will take time so I will leave that to tomorrow. You could add now the next check or two if the wires prove to be OK. How do I get back to this thread if the laptop shuts down? I will put it to sleep after I have your reply. Good Night!
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
You will have been sent an email with each reply I send and on that email is a link back here. Just click the link and you will come back to this thread.As to another check if that's fine then set the dryer going on a full cycle and leave it. Then after a while it should store the new error code in. Do the same check as you did before to get the E41 code up and see what the new error code is and let me know.As for a no heat fault there isn't much that can cause this. As you say the heater is fine and the fan is running. But not sure if you have tested the thermostats on the left hand side of the dryer chamber. The smaller one will have a red button. Press this as its a reset button. Check them as well but to be honest its very rare this fails but worth checking them as well.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The red wires into the lower NTC sensor look OK and a tug has no effect. If it is a switch I can check iits resistance - I tried to wriggle the block off but do not want to force it until you confirm it is a pull off connector!
The 2 thermostats on the dryer duct show a resistance of 0.4 ohm. The red button did not move when pressed - presumably it moves out if it trips.
When the fan is running there is no mains voltage on the heater terminals. I am puzzled why it would do a drying cycle like this, why not just flag the problem? Unless it is a PCB problem,
Holding the 2 buttons in after a 12 min drying cycle without going to Off just came up with the 12 min display. Releasing the switches, going to Off and then one click clockwise came up with C11 and 8.88 alternating with 2 graphics and cascading lights. Twice, without pushing the buttons, it came up with ELE and started to take in water. Going a further 9 clicks as suggested in another post gave E41. I can try again, but please give the detailed switch sequence to get any alternative error code.
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
Ok as to the lower ntc the wires will come out. There may be a small tab on the sensor holding the block on. Jus lift this up and pull the wires out.Then you can test the resistance of the ntc from there. It will be around 7K ohms if ok.But as to it not coming up with any error code this is strange as if its not working then the new error code should replace the E41 you already have in there.As you sound like you know how to check things out with a multimeter and repair things ive uploaded the service manual for this. Just click the link below and then you can download and save it from there. Then have a look at this as you can get into diagosntics and check each part out from there.Try that and see what you find and let me know.Click here for the service manual
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
Hi Just wondering how you got on with the appliance as the question is still open? If you need anymore info just get back to me.If not then if you could rate the answer that will close the question for you. Many thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I sent a reply last night around 8.00pm but as a new question since there was no space for a reply - it was marked as resolved. It was under charlie-golf but I had log in problems and am not certain which password ***** finished up with. The answer was as follows:
Thanks for the control system manual - I have not digested it yet but will have a look at error codes shortly and report.Getting at the NTC sensor from a very cramped space was challenging as was getting probes onto the obscured tiny electrodes - and I did not immediately see that the plug not the whole white block but just the end! However I had a reading of 8.1k which to me sounds close enough.So we are looking for a fault which prevents power being supplied to the heaters but does not prevent the drying cycle from running without heat. Is there some form of flow chart based on the circuit and software which would pinpoint what can cause this situation?I will be happy to complete a rating in due course - it is a bit early yet. I appreciate this fault is a bit obscure!
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
Ok that reading you goot from the NTC is correct so you can rule that out. As to a flow chart on the circuit i assume you mean the wiring diagram do you? If so i will upload it for you now. But if thats fine and the thermostats are ok but theres no power to the heaters then its possibley the small circuit board at the front as this is the dryer circuit board. But have a look at the wiring diagram and the service manual as in the manual you can do a service test on the dryer which should bring the heaters on direct. Have a look and see what you find.
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Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Using the 4.1 Access instructions does not work - the initial sequence display works OK but if I then turn the knob a/c to 9 the m/c starts to run, whether I continue to hold the 2 buttons in or not - the instructions do not say! Going to 10 gives E41 and E11.Page 67 refers to an NTC on the duct and pages 89/90 show items 27 and 28 as thermostats, presumably the ones I measured at 0.4 ohms, and items 23 and 24 as temperature sensors which I have not found or measured - is one of these the NTC mentioned on P67?. Presumably these are the thermostats and temperature sensors show on the left of the wiring diagram you sent.I really do not know enough to work out what could be wrong or what else to test. If you can clarify how to get an alarm code at position 9 I can try again. Given that codes seem to be displayed as E41 I am confused by the references in 5.2.1 to multiple flashes in red and green. Is this relevant? I can also test other components if I know where they are.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have not seen an answer to the above - It seems likely you are on holiday. I will not be available until 10th April so we need to put this on ice until then. My wife is looking at new washer/dryers so if we cannot progress when I am back we will also be in failure mode!
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
After so many days the questions time out. You can still reopen them but i cannot. So when you come back on the 10 april just reply and it will open it again. As to your first question about the test mode not sure if you got into it correctly so i will list it again in my words so it may be a bit easyer to understand then the service manual. Turn the dial to off.Make sure the door is closed.Press and hold the start button and the button to the left of it.Keep them both held in and turn the dial 1 click clockwise.Keep the buttons held in till the leds flash then let go.Now turn the dial 8 clicks clockwise.This is the dryer section of the test mode so the dryer side should kick in and get hot. See what happens on there and let me know.Then to exit test mode just turn the dial to off then on then back off again. As to the red and green lights you say just ingorn them as thats for models that dont have the display screen were as yours does. Just try the above and see what happens on the dryer side of test mode and let me know.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have just come across this reply box, having already written a review saying the problem has not been answered or rated. The review and reply boxes should be close together, or a note at the review box could point to the reply box!In diagnostic mode the dryer does work OK with the starting temperatures at room ambient and going up until I stopped it at 100/63. A recheck in normal mode confirmed that everything else works but the heaters do not come on. Hopefully this indicates what is at fault - presumably the diagnostic test misses out some hardware/firmware/software.I wonder if we might have spent less time swopping information if this diagnostic test had been the first step before individual component checks.
Expert:  Daniel replied 1 year ago.
The reason we do the component check first is to rule it all out. So as you say the NTC sensors are fine and the blower motor comes on then we know thats all ok. As it gets hot during the test cycle then we know the fault lies with the electronics as all the components are fine as per your checks already so thats why i do the checks first. Its just something i do, Other engineers may do it different so even if you did the diagnostic check first you would still now need to check the components out so either way you do the above to find the fault is with the electronics now. Behind the front control panel you will see a smaller square circuit board. This is the dryer board and controls the dryer side. This is more then likely the issue here but there is also a chance the main control board is the fault. As this is a control board theres no test you can do on there to see which is faulty unless you are good at electroincs and now how to test diodes, capacitor and resistors. This is something we dont do as we just replace the control boards. So from the info you have now given im afraid its looking like an electronic fault on one of the control boards here.