Audi Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
This could be a lack of fuel pressure from the electrical pump at the tank.If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time or could not be running at full speed. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse, Ideally measure the pressure at the inlet to the main engine fuel pump and if this is low check the pump as described and also consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.If both of these are OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.
then check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues Also have a feel around with your bare hands with the engine running to see if you can feel any escaping gas under your touch. Another method is to use a soap and water solution sprayed onto any suspect areas - if there's a leak it'll bubble up with the engine runningAlso check that the vacuum hose running to the dump / turbo bypass valve is intact with no leaks as if the dump valve is opening prematurely you'll be losing all your boostIf this is OK then remove the high pressure intake hose after the turbo and have a feel of the turbine wheel - there should be no play radially at all - but a little bit of axial / end to end float is normalone other possibility is that the wastegate actuator spring has gone soft so allowing the wastegate to open prematurely - if your actuator has a threaded end you can increase the preload on it to see if this improves things otherwise these units are quite cheap compared to a new turbo so it may be worth trying a replacementIf this is OK then check for air leaks after the mass airflow meter - The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak. Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.