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Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: BMW
Satisfied Customers: 21599
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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BMW 118 D sport, feels like its running on 3 cylinders, vibrating

Customer Question

BMW 118 D sport, feels like it's running on 3 cylinders, vibrating badly especially on idle,no fault lights on dash, used to come and go but now permanent. Garage unable to find fault after compression and vatios other tests. They have now sent the injectors away for testing. Power almost normal but running very rough.

milage 45000

Submitted: 3 years ago.
Category: BMW
Expert:  Shantal-Mod replied 3 years ago.
Hello,

I'm Shantal and I'm a moderator for this topic.

We have been working with the Experts to try to help you with your question. Sometimes it may take a bit of time to find the right fit.

I was checking to see if you had already found your answer or if you still need assistance from one of the Experts.

Please let me know if you wish to continue waiting or if you would like for us to close your question?

Thank you,

Shantal
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Hi Shantal,
Have not had an answer to my question and still need expert advise !!


Thank you ,


regards Hans.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Dear Shantal,


did you get my previous e-mail ?


I have not had a response to my original question !!


Still waiting


Regards Hans.

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hi

can you tell me what fault codes have been pulled off the car? and what tests have been tried?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


I have told you all this in my original question,


no fault codes


compression on 3 cylinders normal


one slightly down but not by much,


I shall be talking to the mechanic tomorrow and will let you know anything else relevant.


Regards Hans.


 


Why don't you hazzard a guess?

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello Hans

OK
This could be a lack of fuel pressure from the electrical pump at the tank.

If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time or could not be running at full speed. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse,
Ideally measure the pressure at the inlet to the main engine fuel pump and if this is low check the pump as described and also consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.

If both of these are OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly

If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve

Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home

Also worth considering a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a clogged injector nozzle will reduce power and give poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked

Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.


If the above are all OK then try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engine out causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.
if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile


I'd also suggest inspecting the throttle pedal sensor for corroded contacts and damaged wiring
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Hi Matt,


thank you for your advise,


the problem with my car still hasn't been solved,


they are now talking about the flywheel and associated components.( at


ALLAN ASTON (Bosh agents in Evesham )


I shall keep you posted,


Thank you for your help so far,


Kind Regards


Hans.


Might have to take it to BMW in the end.

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello

if the dual mass flywheel is breaking up

then you would get a rough idle and all sorts of horrible noises

If your gearstick is rattling this is another pointer to this being the problem.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.


There are no horrible noises and the gear stick isn't rattling just badly vibrating,


listening to the engine sounds almost normal , maybe a little noisier.


 


vibration worst on idling improving with acceleration

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello

OK so the flywheel is hopefully fine

one other thing to check is the state of the engine mounts as they're a hydraulic item on these inspect the mount to see if its leaking any fluid and replace if it is
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Hi Matt,


will I be charged every time I as you a question?


 


Regards Hans.


 


Still haven't solved the problem.

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello Hans

no you only get charged per post so unless you open a new post / fresh question from scratch then you get charged again

but you can keep asking questions on the same post as the process is supposed to a be a dialogue with information going back and forth to solve the problem



if the mounts are OK and its still shaking away then
try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engine out causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile

Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Hi Matt,


sorry to be so long winded but the car is still at the garage and is not sorted yet,


I think I might have to take it to the BMW dealer.


Should know more on Monday.


Kind regards,


Hans.


 

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello Hans

if you let me know your whereabouts I can try to reccommend a BMW specialist

these will still save you money over a dealership as their labour rate is considerably less
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Thank you Matt,


my postcode is:


 


WR10 2PG


 


around Worcester ,Pershore or Evesham would be good,


the car is with " Bosh Allan Aston " in Evesham at the moment.


 


Kind Regards ,


Hans.

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello Hans


Ok try this firm

http://www.allenpmw.co.uk/

as their guys are ex main dealer
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: BMW
Satisfied Customers: 21599
Experience: BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
Matt and other BMW Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Thanks Matt,


seeing the mechanic this morning,


will keep you posted,


regards Hans.

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Good luck
Customer: replied 3 years ago.


Hi Matt,


thank's for all your efforts,


had to have a new flywheel and clutch in the end,done by allenpmw,as you recommended, shall go to him in future,


first class service and very reasonable.


car running very sweetly now,


thanks again,


 


Kind Regards


Hans.

Expert:  Matt replied 3 years ago.
Hello Hans

glad you got it sorted


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