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Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 20384
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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HI, i have a 2006 ssangyong kyron 2.0 xdi 124000 kilometers

Customer Question

i have a 2006 ssangyong kyron 2.0 xdi 124000 kilometers on clock. glo plug light staying on but main problem is shuddering when driving long distances it comes and goes . i had it checked on diagnostics but nothing definite maybe a problem with injector 4 (open circuit) but it then cleared itself . i know very little about cars but i thought a problem with an injector just wouldnt disappear and reappear could it be faulty electronics or wiring . thanks for your help. also using dipthane injector cleaner .car always serviced properly .

Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.


a glow plug light that always on is the 'check engine' light with these so the quickest route to repair is to have the car plugged into a diagnostic machine which will read off the fault code stored in the ECU (providing the light is still on at this point) and indicate which sensor has failed or whether the fault is more serious.

You can do a very rough and ready check yourself by unplugging sensors one at a time and seeing if any of them change the driving condition which would indicate the most recently unplugged sensor is the faulty one. This method is not foolproof though and reading a fault code off is the better method.

from your description this could be a lack of fuel pressure

so 1st consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this will reduce pressure.

If OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly

If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve

Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home

Also worth considering a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a clogged injector nozzle will reduce power and give poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked

Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.

If the above are all OK then try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engine out causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile


Customer: replied 2 years ago.


thanks for all the info but i am still puzzled why the shuddering is intermittent , no problem for days then comes back again.I am using injector cleaner .sorry for stupid questions .



Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
Hello Teddy

intermittant issues are often down to temperature - which in turn means they are effected by the weather

as things expand and heat up then electrical connections can move apart and become intermittant
or with air leaks they can get bettter with temperature as things expand and fill the gap

like I said the quickest route is to get the car plugged into a diagnostic as the bext step
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 20384
Experience: BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
Matt and other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

thanks very much

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Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
glad to help

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