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Hi, I have a seat Ibiza MK5, 1.6l 2010 TDI. Hi, Sorry, The previous question is now obsolete as I have just managed to start it. However as mension previously, I still have a problem with what I think is the MAF sensor. Question to follow in a few minutes.
I have just changed the air filter and blew the dust out of the maf sensor, when I started the car afterwards, it won't rev above 2,500 rpm, any thoughts please?
Hi Matt, Thanks for your reply, it sounds like good advice. The only thing I can add to my question is that the car was running fine before I changed the air filter today, although the double loop light came on a couple of times last week without loss of perfomance. Do you think it is more likely to be the wiring to the airflow meter as i unplugged it and plugged it back in. None of the other hoses etc were touched and the car has only done 60,000 kms (40k ish miles)
Thanks again for your suggestions. Unfortunately there are no code faults showing and the connecting of the battery leads for 10 minutes changed nothing.
In fact when you start the engine, it won't go above 2,500 rpm with or without the airflow sensor connected, the only difference is that the double loop warning light comes up if disconnected and goes out when connected. This makes me think that it isn't the airflow sensor or its wiring?
Still scratching my head, does this info give you any ideas?
Hello This could be a lack of fuel pressure from the electrical pump at the tank. If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time or could not be running at full speed. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse, Ideally measure the pressure at the inlet to the main engine fuel pump and if this is low check the pump as described and also consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.
If both of these are OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.
If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly
If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve
Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home