Hopefully i can help..
If this problem has only occurred shortly after you had the clutch assembly done - then the next stage would be to have good visual inspection around the engine bay in particular down the right hand side as you look into the engine bay/gearbox side and check all the connectors/ you see down that side/ignition coil/leads and such like to ensure they are fully connected - it possible thats maybe whats hapened here that something during either refitting of the gearbox or during removal hasnt been fully connected back electrically or misplaced or worked itself loose under vibration when the engine was running hence the flickering at the beginning and then to the point where the light is on permanently..so maybe have good inspection down that side if you can and see what you find..the next stage if you cant see anything obvious would be to have the garage concerned go over or pretty much re-trace their steps or better still diagnostically scan the vehicles ecu and see what exactly has been picked up "fault code wise" and then take it from there..I do hope this helps..
Nothing seems loose but with the compact nature of modern engines there may be connections I've missed hidden away. I can get ecu codes by getting 'test' up on the dashboard but I go through about 40 of them and obviously to me they don't mean much to me. If you can suggest one to look for that is more likely then the others to cause the fault that may be useful. I'll drop the car in to the garage that did the clutch this week to get them to check it.
Hi..there thanks for your reply..
You shouldnt have about 40 fault codes unless there is serious issue as far as the ecu goes or communication wiring to it is damaged or suspect to cause all those faults to log.you should see the ecu just to front of the battery or up from the pasenger headlamp area.to the left of the washer bottle filler neck check the wiring there,the ecu does needs shifted to when the gearbox needs removed so certainly check that - you can try disconnecting the battery for about 10mins and then reconnect and see if the same codes appear,ensure the terminals are resecure also check earth strap to gearbox too..never the less it isnt usually wise to go by the codes you see from the dash self test there but to always back it up by doing a proper plug in test via the 16 pin dlc port,any good garage would do that - as you may find that half these codes wont even come up on the test and might not actually relate to the problem you have anyway or could be old codes - prob the most obvious things to check would be Ignition system - coil as such which i may add arent really all that uncommon for failing on these engines and can produce exactly the same symptoms you'll see that near the top on the right hand side and the 4 ht's coming from it check that ensure those hts are secure and the multiplug connector to it..they would also have too disconnect the front exhaust flexible pipe so they would also have to check the lambda sensors/wiring from them on the pipe havent been damaged..Without knowning the exact codes you have usually P fault codes are the ones you go by that would be the only way forward if you can see anything obvious as far anything loose or disconnected..