How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Matt Your Own Question
Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 22001
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
12772297
Type Your Ford Question Here...
Matt is online now

Ive had a 2010 Ford Fiesta Titanium 1.6 TDCI. It has done

Resolved Question:

Ive had a 2010 Ford Fiesta Titanium 1.6 TDCI.
It has done 50,000 miles. It has been serviced every year since it was bought by the last owner and I purchased it in October (2014). I recently had a tyre changed and the auxiliary belt changed as a precaution. Since the belt was changed I've had two instances of "Engine Malfunction" once whilst the car was stationary and second whilst driving at a low speed. There seems to be no power lost in the car overall and no odd noises other than the squeaking of moisture on the belt when it first starts (which goes when the car is warm).
I've read that it could be just a general software error but it has worried me. Any help?
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Ford
Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
Hello
On any car if you get a check engine light or other error message this typically means one or more of the sensors has failed or has a faulty connection.
The ECU senses this and may put the car into 'limp home' mode which typically limits the revs and the amount of power available. Usually the car is safe to drive for a short distance as the mode is intended is intended to get you home without incurring any engine damage
The quickest route to repair is to have the car plugged into a diagnostic machine which will read off the fault code stored in the ECU (providing the light is still on at this point) and indicate which sensor has failed or whether the fault is more serious.
You can do a very rough and ready check yourself by unplugging sensors one at a time and seeing if any of them change the driving condition which would indicate the most recently unplugged sensor is the faulty one. This method is not foolproof though and reading a fault code off is the better method.
sounds like the fault is a minor one and intermittent for now , so it may be difficult to find with a diagnostic
I'd just do a quick check of all the major sensor connections as a next step
Matt and other Ford Specialists are ready to help you