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Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 20586
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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X type 2.0D dies at 3200 but no fault codes

Customer Question

X type 2.0D dies at 3200 but no fault codes
Submitted: 4 months ago.
Category: Ford
Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I have changed inlet man and vac pipes still the same problem when it reaches 3200 rpm the car misses and shuts off but restarts straight away no problems until you try to go over 3200 rpm
Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

Hello

if you haven't already then t’s worth considering fitting a new fuel filter as if only slightly blocked this can lower fuel supply pressure and choke the main pump, the pump will be more sensitive to this when its cold as diesel thickens considerably with low temperatures.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly

If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve

Also worth considering adding a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a clogged injector nozzle will reduce power and give poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked

Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
Good morning I have recently changed the engine and found the was parts that are different i.e. The turbo I never had the problem before of cutting out when I hit the gas. I changed fuel filter in Jan this year because there was a problem of fuel this morning on the way to work it had 1/4 of a tank which has done about 440 miles so far I filled it up and now she cuts out at 3750 rpm s when I drove her from cold she cut out in first gear at 2500 rpm s but she pulls really well loads of power until 3200 rpm she starts to miss as she cuts out still no fault codes though
Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

Hello

also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

it might also be worth measuring fuel pressure at the injector rail as this will show if the main pump is in good condition

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
That was the first thing I checked was the egr and cleaned it the egr was new last September as with the turbo pipes I have changed the vac pipes because I thought that was the problem and the inlet man but still got the problem the car was perfect until Sunday I got in it pulled away got to 3200 rpm and misfired and cut out when the engine is cold it does the same and cuts out at 2500 rpm there is still loads of power though
Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

OK

in that case its going to be a lack of fuel so either the ECU isn't opening the injectors enough or there's not enough fuel pressure ( hence my suggestion of measuring it at the injector rail)

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hoseclips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas/propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you mightthink that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can oflighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas intoeach area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs ofcorrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter andrun the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it isfaulty

It’s also worth cleaning the MAF sensor wires, as they can get coated with dirt over time which then offsets the reading

Use some contact cleaner or brake cleaner to spray onto the wires to remove the dirt – on no account touch the wires with anything as they are very fragile

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
I am away at sea for a week now I will try it as soon as I get home I have ordered a new egr and all filters just to be on the safe side because I think it would help it's strange because the car was fine before the weekend thanks
Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

understood

just get back to me on this post

Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

Hi

do you still need help?

Bear in mind that the site takes a deposit from you at the beginning and this is held by the site until you rate my answer at which point the cash is split between the site and the expert. I am only paid for my work on this question if you rate my answer, using the star system at the top of the screen. Please do not forget! Thank you

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
Hi Matt I changed o rings on the pump and fuel filter still does the same there car was driving perfect until two weeks ago it done 70000 miles
Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

Hello

1 other thing to try is some fresh fuel and also with the fuel filler cap loosened off as if the cap 1 way valve is faulty it can generate a vacuum inside the tank and stall the pump

Customer: replied 4 months ago.
Funny enough every time I tank up it does hiss when I open the fuel cap
Expert:  Matt replied 4 months ago.

Hello

you should get a slight hiss but nothing huge

if this doesn't help then I'd next check that the air filter is in good condition and that there's no leaks on the pipe running to the turbo , post MAF meter

Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Hi

do you still need help?

Bear in mind that the site takes a deposit from you at the beginning and this is held by the site until you rate my answer at which point the cash is split between the site and the expert. I am only paid for my work on this question if you rate my answer, using the star system at the top of the screen. Please do not forget! Thank you

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I have cleaned the maf sensor and airflow sensor changed air filter put inline pump on fuel line and changed pre/sensor still same problem ??????
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I will check and change the pipes from turbo to intercooler tomorrow
Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Ok

just get back to me on this post

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Hi just checked the pipes no splits or holes but started the car and it seems to play up more when cold it goes up to 2250 rpms misses then dies ?
Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Ok

I'd next suggest to blank off the EGR valve with a thin sheet of aluminium / spacer as this still sounds like you're getting exhaust into the inlet

leave the valve connected electrically though

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I put a new one on yesterday afternoon thinking it was the problem!
Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Hmmm

Ok I'd next consider removing the O2 sensor in the exhaust to check that the cat condition is OK

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I will try that but I didn't think it would have one
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Just checked for co2 sensor but there is not one on the exhaust system
Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Hello

OK

the other thing to check is if the throttle / air valve on the inlet manifold is staying open as if its clogged up they can snap shut and choke the engine

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I had a look there is only egr on the inlet manifold
Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

OK

so its still possible that the cataylst is blocked and limiting power I'd say the next step is to drop the exhaust off the turbo so you can peer inside and check that the cat brick isn't broken up

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I checked it it's complete but still dies when the engine hits 2000 rpm when cold or 3400 when hot
Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Hello

Ok I'm wondering if the boost pressure sensor ( MAP) may be faulty and over-reading? as the ECU will limit the amount of boost pressure to protect the engine

ideally you would plug in a scan tool and look at the monitor values to see that its not exceeeding the limit ( which I think is 1.2bar of boost)

Expert:  Matt replied 3 months ago.

Hi

do you still need help?

Bear in mind that the site takes a deposit from you at the beginning and this is held by the site until you rate my answer at which point the cash is split between the site and the expert. I am only paid for my work on this question if you rate my answer, using the star system at the top of the screen. Please do not forget! Thank you

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