Does the key actually turn/move at all in the drivers door?
Which part did they say was siezed the barrel or the lock/latch itself?
Yes, the key does turn, but not fully. They didn't say which part is seized. They said they can't get at the lock itself as it is enclosed.
Ok..pretty sure the barrel itself is seperate of the latch mechanisim itself..the barrel has a small lever thats actuates the latch mechanisim operate unlock/locking of the door - you dont mention whether anyone has sprayed any wd-40 into the lock first where the key goes first..usually the first step in any case like this - just incase thats all it needs..another way is if the key isnt fully turning..put the key in and with rubber mallet give a hit to the back of the key to hopefully shock to turn of free up - then try turning again or at the same time short sharp shocks to the back of the key whilst rocking the key back and forth in the lock,but ensuring the lock inside has been soaked in wd-40 though..if it still doesnt go then dont force it round or you'll risk breaking the key in the lock anyway...You dont mention whether they have the door open or not..if the later and door is still locked and they got the door panel off somehow..all they can do is force the lock open from the inside,cavity in the door of the car..not ideal but you have no option,the mechanism has a series of rods that connect to the lock/handles,,so they may want to ensure none of those are loose.popped off.plastic ends havent broken away....but the result of replacement id say would be second hand lock/latch with its own matched key...
i do hope this helps
Yes, we tried WD40 and I think the mechanic tried it as well.
The door is still closed, but the mechanic managed to get the internal door panel off. His problem is that he still can't access the actual lock, so he can't see the mechanism, presumably including the rods. Can you tell me how to get into the lock/barrel itself? As it is, he couldn't replace it because he can't access it.
The rods attach to the interior handle/plus one upto the exterior handle.plus a long rod with the door button on the top..and a smaller lever thats attached to the back of barrel itself that operates the latch/lock unit...the problem with the door still locked means you can actually get to the 3 screws that hold the entire unit to the door...these rods are not obscured and should be easily noticable when the door card is off..pull the water membraine back and you should see them along with the window regualator etc - you just need to follow the interior handle rod and follow it down and you come to the latch/mechanisim on the door..there is no security panel or anything should be getting in the way as far as the latch itself inside the door..How to get to it? well everyone has differant ways,but you have to bear in mind that the door is still locked and makes things alot more ackward to get at them open,provided there is a replacement/latch/barrel/key on hand - whether thats forcing the lock by a way of turning the key with a pair of pliers to excert more force on the lock to get it to turn.one option..having the break the lock from within the door cavity to allow the latch to free off allowing the door to be opened to replace it - drill through the barrel as a last resort id say...do you have spare key..maybe try that just incase the one your using at the moment is little worn for that lock.
OK, thanks for your help. I think I'm going to have to print all this out and take it down to the mechanic - he'll probably make more sense of it than I can! Funnily enough, we did think of trying the spare key, but can't find the blasted thing! Guess I'd better go and have another search for it.
Hi..there..no problem.glad to help..hopefully it helps you out...
Please dont forget to rate my answer above most appreciated..regards Robert