code 2732. impermissible opening of hydraulic clutch forward gear has occurred
this is a bit unpleasant as it means the transmission is trying to move the 1st gear cluster when it shouldn't
and the 2nd 1634 code is a general transmission fault
so I'd start by checking the basics
I'd take a look at the colour of the transmission oil it should be a dark red colour if its black then its needs changing together with its oil filter. Also check its level with the gearbox warm and just after you've moved the selector through all the positions leaving it for a few seconds in each one and then back to park.
You can top up the box through the side fill plug if required and make sure you use the correct oil for your car as the fluids are not all the same. Some manufacturers recommended a change of the type of fluid - Speak to the local dealer and parts dept - they will advise you on the updated fluid to use..
If that’s all OK then check all the electrical connections of the gearbox, remove each connector in turn and spray with contact cleaner. Check that the wiring to the gearbox is in good condition with no chafing or frayed wire
If this is OK then check the selector lever linkage / cable under the car for any broken parts and or missing bolts as if this is coming adrift then it can rub on the car body or just bind up
Then - you should top up if low and re try it - or, if its level is ok - and condition is ok - then the next step is to drain it off - open it up and clean the filters inside -- refill and retry it..
when you say the ESP is faulty, do you mean the electric power steering? as ESP is electronic stability programme? and there's no 1 part to the system
The quickest route to repair is to have the car plugged into a diagnostic machine which will read off the fault code stored in the ECU (providing the light is still on at this point) and indicate which sensor has failed or whether the fault is more serious.
However with ABS /esp systems 99% of the time its a problem with one of the wheel speed sensors and I'd first check the connections at all four corners first for any signs of corrosion or chafed wiring.
The sensor is located in the wheel hub so you'll have to remove each wheel in turn to inspect them all.
Also check that the toothed wheel that the sensor points to is clean and free of any debris.
you can check each sensor's function by plugging the two output wires into an AC voltmeter and spinning the wheel quite quickly, you should get a voltage signal that increases with rev's.
Its possible that the fault is only a bad connection to one of the wheel sensors.
This may be remedied by removing each wheel in turn and unplugging each sensor and cleaning the contacts with a squirt of electrical contact cleaner. Then refitting.
as to the 'cracking' noise I'd say its possibly the vacuum pump? and you will need to check the vacuum pipework for leaks and cracks
do you still need help?
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don't worry I'd already realised it was an auto
I think the noise is the gear cluster not moving correctly ( as per the fault code) so this is pointing to an internal fault with the transmission, now my original suggestion of cleaning out the filter screen still stands and while the sump is off I'd also do a visual inspection of the 1st gear cluster too
to deal with the last one 1st I'd say that the steering needs calibrating ?
all thats required with this is to have the engine running and turn the steering from lock to lock at least 5 times
as to the VGC CVT I'm unsure of what this may be ? as CVT = continously variable transmission and if you have this transmission type then your guy is correct in sayin that they aren't generally servicable
If the CVT is working OK then I'd keep on top of the fluid changes and hopefully it'll continue to work as it should
but yes its difficult to repair , even in europe and often the whole unit has to be replaced if it becomes faulty
this firm could ship a new unit
alternatively a good used unit would be more cost effective