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Doug C.
Doug C., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8552
Experience:  Mitsubishi trained and employeed technician
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Having fitted a replacement brake master cylinder and modulator/abs

Customer Question

having fitted a replacement brake master cylinder and modulator/abs unit to a 2004 shogun 3200cc diesel automatic it is all working perfectly but,when the vehicle is in two wheel drive the green lights for the four wheel drive (on dashboard) are flashing on and off the two wheels are engaged ok when in four wheel drive all four lights are on correctlty all sequences are working as should be.have tried all the known remedies ie keeping steering straight revving putting in neutral etc everything to do with driving car is working just these two lights flashing.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug C. replied 1 year ago.
Hi,This is an indication of a vacuum loss to the front axle actuator. The front axle has an actuator on it with a dual diaphragm that pulls out for 2WD and pulls in for 4WD. On the axle is an indicator switch to tell the ecu if it is in 2WD or 4WD.When vacuum is lost to the actuator it prevents it from going one direction or the other, or both depending on the nature of the failure. When this happens, the switch no longer shows the correct position that matches the transfer lever position, and the green four wheel drive lights flash. This is the same process that normally happens for a few seconds when you change ranges, just in your case it is unable to complete the transaction so it just continues flashing.Given the recent work, I would double check you did not knock any hoses off during the work. While not too likely given the area you were working in, it doesn't hurt to look over everything.More likely however you are going to find the free wheel clutch solenoid pack failed... it is just about the only failure we see on these outside of vacuum hose problems (missing/rotted/connected wrong). The free wheel solenoid pack is located on the frame rail beneath the air filter area, held on with two 10mm bolts. It can be tested relatively easily with a multimeter, battery/scrap wire, and a hand vacuum pump.Each solenoid coil should read around 35 ohms resistance (10-20% variance is OK due to age). If either shows dead short or high resistance, the pack is bad.Hooking up a hand vacuum pump to one solenoid at a time and using scrap wire and a battery to engage/disengage the solenoid, attempt to draw vacuum through the solenoid with it engaged and disengaged. If either solenoid passes vacuum (even slightly, a tiny leak will cause a problem) regardless of voltage application or holds vacuum regardless of voltage application, the pack is bad and requires replacement.Again this part is the #1 failure point on these, however you will still want to go over all of your hoses first to make sure nothing is amiss there, and if possible the proper testing of the solenoid pack as above prior to purchasing any parts to be sure you get it on the first try.
Doug C., ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8552
Experience: Mitsubishi trained and employeed technician
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Customer: replied 1 year ago.
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Customer: replied 1 year ago.
having now changed the solenoids and looked over pipes cannot see anything amiss.
still showing green flashing in two wheel drive,sometimes after 5/10 minutes the orange diff light flashes
rather than the green.presume it is alright to drive like this can you confirm thanks.
Expert:  Doug C. replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
If the C/D light is flashing this indicates a trouble code is recorded in the transfer ecu... it would be a good idea to scan the system and see what is being reported there.
As far as the green lights go.... if you are 100% certain the vacuum hoses/pipes are all intact and connected properly and the solenoid pack is new, then we would want to put a hand vacuum pump on the actuator and manually try to operate the actuator and see if you can get the lights to go out when shifted into 2WD and the actuator drawn out. If the actuator won't move then there is an issue there (diaphragm failure, fork failure in the differential); if the actuator moves out but it still flashes then we would need to get on a scan tool to investigate each switch position to see what is and isn't moving. This is very rare, but there wouldn't be much else left at that point.
You can drive with the green lights flashing, just know that the fork can partially engage while driving so you might hear a little noise from the front end for example while decelerating etc. It is not typical to cause any damage though.
The C/D light flashing we would have to know what the fault is to say for sure, but most likely it is going to be reading a switch failure of some sort etc.

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