No ABS light shouldnt be on druing driving, and its now tested during MOT so it will have to be rectified before any MOT is due - It will always come on d ignition during its self test and then go out once engines running if no faults are found - because you mention the 3 faults above i asume on braking would normally be down to a fault on one of the abs sensors..and thus why the ABS comes on which means the ABS isnt working but reverts back to the ordinary standard braking which quite safe..but you just wont have the ABS assist...Id say at least with this type of fault is get the faults codes retrived and see what ABS fault codes is flagged..i suspect it most likely going to be a sensor fault than anything else..or a possible wheel bearing/hub issue on the front maybe or corrosion build up effecting the sensor....Im kind surprised the garage didnt perform a diagnsotic scan to see what abs fault codes the cars storing that way you/garage/we would know what type of fault your dealing with..but from here id say the best course of action is to get it scanned first..ensure who ever does it has the equipement to scan the abs on these cars and then take from there based on the results of that test/or the codes you get...I do hope this helps
OK' good to know the light should not be on but its not just the sensor its the big noise it makes when the car is first started - the whir and tick and then the juddering almost scraping noise on braking, then when get into 4 the gear and speed up abs light comes on and it sounds fine again-why does it do this? Your answer didn't really tell me about the initial noise! Looking forward to hearing from you
well as you describe "the whir and tick and then the juddering almost scraping noise on braking" is more than likely the ABS pump/module itself due to what ever fault is on it like i say most likely a sensor issue... having said that. bear in mind its pretty difficult to be exact on what the location of the fault is without hearing it and further no testing being done it...the reason when you speed up and the ABS light comes on and the nosie stops is possibly like i mentioned above..the ABS shuts down when it cant pick up on the which ever wheel/hub/sensor is at fault and reverts to standard braking..hence why you dont hear the ABS kicking in when the lights on until of course you switch off and the on again and the same issue starts again
Thank you. How easy is this to fix?
For a sensor itself prob half hour.. if the bearing being an active sensor bearing as that what the sensor gets it info from to send back the abs module by rotational speed of the wheel/hub.. its a pressed in bearing so id say a couple of hours max to do that..but like i said best to get it diagnosed first and see what codes you have..the ABS light is on = fault codes are stored