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Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 22145
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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I have a 2002 Rav 4 and it is my pride and joy, however a problem

Customer Question

I have a 2002 Rav 4 and it is my pride and joy, however a problem has come back. When I have run the car for a little while, if I need to stop to go into a shop for instance or to put petrol in, when I try to start it up again, it wont. I have to leave it for about 10 minutes before it will start again. Wots the problem
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
hello I'm assuming that this is the turbo diesel engine?how many miles are on it and when was it last serviced? do you have any check engine or other fault lights on?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
14/11/2015 07:01
Matt Matt Toyota Mechanic
hello
Hi MatI'm assuming that this is the turbo diesel engine? Correcthow many miles are on it and when was it last serviced? 120,000 last serviced 8 months agodo you have any check engine or other fault lights on? No fault lights showing
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Are you still there
Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
hi yes just putting my kids to bedIdeally measure the pressure at the inlet to the main engine fuel pump and if this is low check the pump as described and also consider changing the fuel filter as if thispartially blocked this too will reduce pressure. If both of theseare OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all the time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it. If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check thatthe turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to thediaphragm / solenoid valve Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home Also worth considering adding a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a cloggedinjector nozzle will reduce power andgive poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all theinjectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked Also check all thehigh pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes,also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the endcaps off under high boost. If the above areall OK then try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air draggedin here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engineout causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn onthe fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running. Check the hoseclips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and alsoall the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missingparts. The best way tolocate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gasaround each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas (butane or propane) to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements. Might also beworth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
If all this is checked, will it prevent my car from failing to start when the engine is warm
Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
Hello
the checks themselves won't effect the engine performance or its ability to start
Is that what you meant?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Sorry for delay in reply. Are you aware of a problem with RAV 4 relating to this difficulty of re-starting the warm engine after a brief spell. I have read quite a few entries on various sites but without any resolution. Also thank you for your advice, I will take it with me when I book my car in for investigation.
Expert:  Matt replied 2 years ago.
Hello if the engine struggles to perform a hot restart then this could be awiring issue as things tend to expand when hot and its possible a poor orpartial electrical connection is being pushed apart on one of the major sensorsso check the connection plug and wiring to the following;Airflow meterCrank positionsensorCam positionsensorO2 sensorThrottle positionsensor unplug each inturn and use some switch / contact cleaner spray on the pins to ensure its all grease / dirt free an air / vacuum leak cand produce this issue
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.
Hi
do you still need help?
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