UK Auto Repair Questions?
What kind of noise?
Oil light on?
Whats your Registration so i can the engine code/set up
Ok.. I noted you put up a 1.6 engine but its actually a 1.4 you have..
I cant see it being a tension issue because the tensioner on them is tensioned via oil pressure so because the oil light isnt on then i would persume that would be fine..did you renew the oil crankshaft seal..its vital that is replaced during that job... did you ensure the dowels that aline the cover when refitting is properly lined up and if these are not fitted the cover can be out of line and that causes oil pump problems and suspect whinning if thats what its like.....
Id hate to say above all the above - is suspect from what your saying there maybe contact going within the timing cover and the chain itself for the noise to increase in speed..it means that maybe the chain is rubbing on an area inside..but the only way to know that is to get the cover off and really inspect the inside of the cover for marks caused by the chain...Another likely senario could be the kit itself or the tensioner..I always recommend when ever doing a timing chain job on any car its always best to spend a little extra getting it direct from the dealer...
I see ok.. the dowels can be a bit of issue as long as they are clean as you can get them it should go on with a bit of light hitting with a copper/hide hammer going round either corner - because of the oil pump you need to get the cover lined and then mated up to the engine... unless the oil pump not to be central or likely slightly out of line causing the noise you hearing..
Where abouts on the cover?
Who's timing kit did you put on and ordered according to engine code (Z14XEP)?
Ok... Yeah its seems to be the correct kit for that engine..And you installed it correctly then the only way the chain can contact like that is if the chain guide on the right ride side could be slight to big.size thickness tolarance issue with the guides itself or the cover was missaligned..
It would be difficult to know if the tolerance or size of the guide because you cant really compare with the old one since it will be worn...Its not unknown to get guides that are bad quaility and cause problems like this...why its does it? going by what your saying the chain is being pushed to much inwards on that side..of course on the left hand side is your selfadjuster guide which is positioned by the tensioner which is oil pressure that does that..where you have the long white guide on the right....
The mark on the sprocket will correspond with the position on the timing mark for the crank on the crank pulley to the lug on the timing case...if it didnt have one then it shouldnt matter as long as the crank doesnt move....Another thing to maybe look at is the tensioner "piston" protrusion on the new one..if its way fully extended then it shouldnt be like that...it should only be fraction extended..that could be something to look at...like i say genuine is always the best way to go and avoid aftermarket if you can...
Well how far out can you recall or see the piston on the tensioner when its all set up....I know its sounds far fetched but do the amount of links on the new chain match the same number on the old
The oil pump can make a similar noise if its not lined up properly ie:- with regards ***** ***** case and the dowels..as you know the pumps on the timing case inside and run by the crankshaft...If the cranks running hot that quickly would suggest that something is rubbing..are you sure the crank seal is all the way in and flush...But that still doesnt suggest to me why if the pump is making that noise causing the chain to rub as you mention..... There are marks on the oil pump rotors one on the outer and one on the inner rotor..in image attached...what about the crankshaft hub is that positoned correctly with the mark pointing upwards around the 11oclock positon..did you tighten down case first then that centre bolt last...
Probably best to re-time...I cant honestly think of anything else you've basically covered everything i can think off..its certainly unusual - but like i say the only thing i keep coming back to is the kit itself/tensioner..so..if you have the old guides bearing in mind taking into account wear on the old use a pair of measuring calipers and compare size to new...
I dont know what you mean..Ive given you the procedure above as per oil pump/crank hub..if you've timed the engine up correctly which you appear to have done considering the engine ran.i dont need to ask if that procedure was done correctly.. you done the dowels and lined the timing case up albeit still hard to fit on which it essentailly shouldnt as alignment of that is critical to ensure the oil pump doesnt whine... this kit you fitted as far as your telling me is ok then
If the belt is tensioned then its puts extra strain on the crank pulley..if the oil pump/hub isnt aligned then you may likely hear that noise...if as you say the crank gets very hot..then something on the end is binding or not aligned..If where me id re do the whole lot again..i know you dont need to remove the sump but that be an option then ensure the tensioner and guides are properly fitted..replace the oil pump..renew the timing case gasket..fit the timing case torque it down fit the crank hub torque that refit the sump..and re-install crank pulley..after that i can see what else it could be its simple installation but alignment is key especially for the oil pump