How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Techdesk Your Own Question
Techdesk, Service Engineer
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 16409
Experience:  Whitegoods engineer working for a multibranded national company in the UK
Type Your Appliance Question Here...
Techdesk is online now

AEG lavamat turbo 16810 not drying. All wires and connectors

This answer was rated:

AEG lavamat turbo 16810 not drying. All wires and connectors in good order. Water drains before drying without problem. Timer counts down normally and fan comes on. However the dryer heater circuit is never completed so the air stays cold. This is for both heat settings. The heaters are fine at about 50 ohms with no earth shorts. The two back thermostats are in an 'on' state. The front sensor reads 40k on a meter. The semsor below the condenser is in circuit and reads around its nominal 4.8K. Higher when cold. Lower when hot. Water is dripping through the condenser which , though dirty, does not look blocked.
I am Tech Michael and I will be assisting you today.
Please be patient with us as these are technical questions and some testing may be required.
It may take a bit of back and forth conversation to be sure we have all the information in order to make a proper diagnosis.
What you need to do is when the until goes into drying mode mode, check for voltage right where the wires from the main board supply the power to the heater parts. Please let me know if you have power there?
Thank you
Tech Michael
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

240 volt

Hi Peter, yes thats what you will be looking for at that location before even the sensors and the heater. Please let me know what you get.
Thank you
Tech Michael
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No! I wasn't asking what voltage. I meant that the voltage was present.

Oh ok thanks thats a good thing.
Now follow the wires to and test all the connection points along the way, you will find it working on one side of a component but where it stops, thats the bad part;-)
Since this may take some time, if you will rate my service in a positive fashion thus far before you close this page, the system will allow me to schedule free follow ups with you and also ensure your question will NOT close or time out;-)
You will then be able to contact me at anytime at no additional cost until we have this fixed for you.

Thank you XXXXX

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Michael you will have to do better than this. Nothing you have said so far suggests that you are familiar with this particular machine. I hope I am wrong.


Following wires though components is a good general approach, but I don't need an expert to tell me that. Without a wiring diagram or any idea which sensors allow the heater to come on and with wires disappearing into various boxes it is not a practical approach.

Hi Peter, it is a general question. It seems like you are unsure which part is bad in the dryer circuit. I am trying to walk you through how to check this and to determine if the board was the issue.
But if you measure voltage from where the power comes out of the board to the heater circuit and you have a good supply there, and you work your way down, you will find where the power fails and that is really the only way to determine the exact bad part.
Alterantively you could (if you are sure the main board is sending 240VAC out) replace all the parts after that and have success. But that would be a waste of money.
It is likely a bad thermostat or the thermal shutoff that no longer has continuity.
You could also disconnect, one at a time or jump them out so you bridge the connection, until you have heat;-)
That works well also.
I will be here for you Peter.
Thank you
Tech Michael
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I told you in the original description about the state of the 2 rear thermal cut-outs. They are in circuit in an 'on' state. So they are not preventing the heater from working. I also gave you the resistance reading for the front sensor (What exactly does this do?) and also details of the sensor below the condenser which appeared to be working normally. What other sensors are there that control the dryer heater operation? If you can't convince me that you know anything about this particular machine I will have to ask someone else.

Can you post the product number (PNC) of the appliance please?
It should be on a label in the door recess.

It begins with 9 so you'll need to prefix it with A so it's not crossed out.

eg. A914419941 00

Once I know this, I'll dig out the relevant service manual and see what further questions I have for you.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.


Thanks for that.
We need to try and retrieve a stored error code from the machine.

On the left of the facia should be a column of buttons, number them with 1 at the top.

Turn the dial to off.
Press and hold together buttons 1 and 2.
While holding turn the dial 1 click clockwise.
The lights should flash, release the buttons and they should scroll.

Now turn the dial clockwise to the 2nd last position before off.

If your machine has a display, you'll see an error code let me know the code.

If it doesn't have a disply, look at the column of lights beside the dial.
Number them with 1 at the top.
Which numbers flash?

Now turn the dial to off, to any program and back to off.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

What a pleasure to talk to someone who knows what they are talking about!


Error 73

The NTC (sensor) on the front of the dryer duct is faulty.
It should read around 5k ohms at 25 deg C.
Your one is reading high at 40K plus, the fault code of E73 is in the service manual as NTC sensor on drying duct faulty (voltage out of limits = short-circuit or open)

The solution in the service manual is to check/replace the NTC, check the wiring, if all ok, replace the main control board.

As you have the high resistance on the front NTC it's most likely just an NTC that needs to be changed.

The part number I have for this machine is #1246641003

You should be able to find the part at , or other online parts suppliers.

Hope this helps
Let me know if you need more help.
Techdesk, Service Engineer
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 16409
Experience: Whitegoods engineer working for a multibranded national company in the UK
Techdesk and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks I will order it. As it will be several days how do I get back to this page to reply to you? I will leave it open but if I lose it?

You should have links in the emails you receive.
They should bring you back here.

The system will also send you reminders to rate the answer.
(they're automated, I can't stop them).

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Front NTC replaced. The new resistance reading shows that the original was reading very high. Still showing error code 73 and no heating. However if I disconnect the sensor below the condenser and try for errors I get E72 which is the correct error for a fault there. As both sensors control the same heating circuit it suggests to me that the CPU is at least still capable of detecting and differentiating between problems outside itself. So it possibly might not be damaged. When the lower sensor is reconnected the error still shows up as E72. Is it possible that the CPU needs to be reset to clear errors after repairs are made? I did switch the dial to OFF to any programme and back to off as you suggested but this did not reset the error.

It will show the last recorded error until it's overwritten.

If you are now getting E72, it's saying there's a fault with the NTC in the hose that connects the tub to the bottom of the condenser unit.

However, if you are generating an error, that will still show until it's overwritten.

Run the dryer again.
Give it time then check for a new error code.

If you want to start from a different code, try starting a program with the door open.
This should change it to E41.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks. So no reset necessary. I deliberately provoked the sensor below the condenser fault because I knew the error code which was correctly reported. I get the door open error code as you said but this is not overwritten when the machine is restarted so the CPU is presumably happy that the front NTC sensor is within range. However despite apparently acting normally the machine does not dry. I had a problem with the fan seizing a few years ago causing the back detecting sensors to cut off the electricity but this part appears to be working OK now. Am I missing something?

OK, thanks for that.

Extremely strange it's not heating.
Is the fan running?
Is the heater box getting hot?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Machine drains properly and then fan comes on.

(My memory of my previous problems when the fan had seized was that it was when the fan came on that the heater circuity was switched on. I had 240v showing both sides of the element until this moment and then zero at one end allowing current to pass. Then the heater went off again when the detectors showed too big a heat build up in the duct.) I have no problems with this part of the circuitry at the moment.


Currently the problem is that the heater never switches on at any point in the cycle despite every appearance of normality.

OK, you must be measuring voltage to earth.
You measure across the element, then, when you have live and neutral to it, you get 240 volts (true measurement).

Put the machine into diagnostics, where you get all the lights scrolling.
Then turn the dial a further 9 clicks clockwise.
This should run the dryer.
Does it get hot?

To exit diagnostics, you turn off, on and off again.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks for persevering. Yes I am measuring to earth. So when 240 volts both sides obviously no connection to neutral and no current flow.

Sorry to be a bit thick but how do I put the machine into diagnostics?

As you did before to retrieve the code.
But, instead of then turning to the 2nd last position, you only turn 9 more clicks.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Yes! It comes on.

So it's heating?

If it is, turn off, on and off again.

Now turn it to dry.

It should start the drying process.
It should take in water.

Are you leaving it running long enough to detect another fault?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Sorry. I meant it was getting hot. I'll try what you suggest and report back

Thanks for that.

If you leave it running for around 20 minutes, see if it generates a new error code.

At the moment, it's checked the heating circuit and that's working.
However, this doesn't test the sensors or their wiring.

Was the fan also running when it heated?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

You got a reply from me before I picked up your question. I am not sure what happened to it. Yes the fan is working until the heater cuts out because the duct gets too hot and the middle sensor cuts off the supply. It does not overwrite E41.


OK so the thermostat is controlling the heat and the air is moving it.
You said earlier it's taking in water.

Unfortunately, the fault isn't making logical sense now as it's not generating an error.

Are you using timed drying?
Are you setting it to more than 10 minutes drying?

If you are using sensor dry, change to timed drying.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

It's 8 clicks further on to start the diagnostic drying.

I let it run for about 10-15 mins until the middle sensor cut out as the duct became too hot.

I presume the reset from diagnostic is just to go to off on the dial and then to any programme and then off again as before.


I am currently timed drying for 10 minutes. On turn on any water drains from the tub and then a small amount goes along the clear plastic tube to the condenser. The drum turns slowly and then after several moments the fan starts and the heater should come on but it does not!

It's 9 clicks according to the service manual.

10 minutes isn't enough.
Set it higher.
The last 10 minutes is cold air.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Perhaps 9 from off as one click has already been made to get into diagnostic mode.


I'll try 20mins now and report back. Once again thanks.

10th position from off.

All 3 service manuals state the same.

Anyways, not to worry, try it on a time dry and see if it now heats.

You're right, re read the manual twice more.
For some weird reason, the manual for your machine doesn't have position 0, off is position 1.

Position 10 is 8 more clicks.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Good. Funny if you reply and I answer not having noticed another response I don't see my reply in the chain.


As I wrote in my hidden reply all in order at the moment as the time was the key. I had not realised that the last 10 mins was cold air. I hope not to bother you again. Once again many thanks.

A glitch in the system I think.

Glad you got it sorted out and working.

If you haven't already done so, I'd appreciate it if you could rate the answer/help I provided.

It's how I'm paid for my time and efforts.

Good luck with the appliance.