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George-Allsorts, Senior Appliance Technicial Manager
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1448
Experience:  A whitegoods technician with 30+ years service in Domestic Appliance Service & Repair, and General Mechanical & Electrical Repair
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My bosch ligixx 7 washing machine door wont open there seems to be no lights on the machi

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my bosch ligixx 7 washing machine door wont open
there seems to be no lights on the machine
Hello, my name is George..

Can you please tell me the ENR and the FD of the appliance... You will find these on a label on the rear of the appliance.

Also tell me if you have a multimeter and can use it on the appliance under instruction.

Kindly be patient whilst awaiting any responses from me as I'm not constantly available.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

the only number i can see is a sticker that says "WIS24140GB"

Does that look correct?

the filter was stuck - i had to dismantle it and i cleaned out a load of hair clips and a key !!

ive put it back together, the filter turns now but still no sign of power to the machine

I will pop out and buy a multimeter

Ok Aidan, in the meantime, you may wish to remove the control panel to check it for blown tracks caused by the siezure of the pump. If you find blown tracks or components you will not need the multimeter.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

ive removed the control panel

I can see the back of the green circuit board - it doesnt look like there are any "blown tracks" but im not completely sure what they would look like

Ive checked the fuse at the plug and it fine.

If the filter was stuck - why would that blow something/ cause a problem with the electricity?

If the filter was stuck - why would that blow something/cause a problem with the electricity? Because it would overload the capability of the circuit..

Please also check that you have power at the socket... Plug something into that socket to ensure there is power to it
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I checked the socket - it's good
Is it multimeter next ?
Yes Aidan,

We need to do some continuity tests next
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Tell me what I need to do....

First point is to read the instructions for the particular type of multimeter you obtain...

Whilst the appliance is unplugged from the mains.

Using the 200ohms setting you need to test from the Live pin on the plug to the point that it reaches the board... If you get a reading then do the same on the Neutral pin to the point that it reaches its connection point on the board...

If you do not get a reading on either of those two, you need to backtrack the wiring to the point where you do have a reading.

Let me know what you find

Customer: replied 2 years ago.

power is definately getting to the circuit board i can see 240v on my multimeter. no idea how to test the exit of the board

Ok, in that case if you have no display following positive power at the module, it needs replacing.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

if the board needs replacing, i guess i may as well buy a new machine !?

ps - the little plug going into the circuit board has 2x red wires, one is live the other is not - is this expected ?

If you have 240v or there abouts across those two wires then this is what is expected.

It is likely to be the power board behine the operating module and cost is around £100
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

ahh so i should have been testing across the 2x red wires

i was scared to do that

i used a neutral at the source and tested each of the red wires in turn

Live testing is not safe for an inexperienced person.. I can not advise you to do that.

You have a plug with two wires coming from where? Trace the wires to their source
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I can trace the wires and I understand where they come from
There is 2x prongs coming out of control board
The little plug that I clip into the control board has 2x red wires, one of them is live one of them is not.
I can trace this right back to where the power comes into the machine
Live/ neutral/ earth from the wall goes into some kind of device that has "iskra" written on it - out of it comes the source of my 2 red wires. Even at the source there, one of red wires is live, one is not
Morning Aidan,

The device near to where the wires enter the appliance is called an Interferance Suppression Filter..
The wires that you can see running from Interferance Suppression Filter run to a plug on the 'Operating and Display Module'... The two wires of that plug are Live and Neutral; putting the meter set to V~ across the two wires should read approx 240v. This is the plug that you can see on the back of the board
From that plug, the route of the power is to the 'Main Switch' on the 'Operating and Display Module' and then out to the 'Power Module'

If you have 240v between those two wires but no display at the 'Operating and Display Module' when the power switch is depressed, then that module is defective.

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