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Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1466
Experience:  I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
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I have just changed the heating element but it's still not

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I have just changed the heating element but it's still not heating up
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hoover vhv781c, fault code e08, not hearing up, I have ordered and fitted a new one but still not heating up its just blowing out cold air.
Hello My name is Ian ~ I am not on the site constantly so please be patient whilst waiting for responses to you queries - have you got power to the heater?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi no problems, it's brand new so iv just plugged the 4 separate connectors in! How would I check for power to it? Everything else works and spins
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi I have got 50v on the live and neutral connections the heater side
OK you have a further problem then you need 240 volts - next step is to follow the cables back and make sure you have continuity from the main pcb to and through the heater and back to the pcb. Power off first of course.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi Ian I have checked for continuity and it's ok but I have found a problem in when I have the connectors unplugged I have 240v, when I plug them in i put my meter on the other side of the connectors and get nothing
Just make sure that your meter probes are long enough to get passed the insulation - come back to me when you have checked.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes they are definitely on and still nothing, here's how iv connected plugs see pic
OK you have an operating thermostat and a safety thermostat in the heater circuit, have you checked that they have continuity through them?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes iv checked and it is a new one, I have continuity
Have you checked the safety stat?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I have no idea where that is would you guide me please
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Sorry iv read it again I have continuity across both of these with wires unplugged
OK can you let me have all the details on the rating plate, ie take a picture if you can, I have three thermostats listed in the parts list, two on the heater and a further one but I need to check the manual to see where. Leave it with me and I'll come back to you.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks these are all the details I could find,
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Last one
Thanks will come back to you tomorrow.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Have you any information about what you was trying to find out for me today
Just going to get the circuit diagram from my works laptop hold on
OK can you read a circuit diagram?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I can have a go
OK give me an email address and I'll send it across to you, put (at) in place of @ as the system will blank out your address if you put the @ in.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
OK what multimeter are you using ?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
It's a fluke meter
Which one
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Fluke 187 true rms multimeter
OK good just wanted to make sure it was one of the autoranging ones,
Set to ac voltage unplug the red lead at the heater and put the positive probe in the wire coming out of the cabinet start the appliance and put the negative probe on the casing, what reading do you have?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks Ian I shall do it when I get home from work
OK now that you have got the circuit diagram it will be easier to carry out the procedure - speak to you later.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I have done that, power on all leads plugged in apart from red one, meter lead on red to case is 236v
Give me an hour and I will come back to you, I'm still at work.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi I never heard anything back from you yesterday, could you help me try and get it sorted tonight as I'm desperate for it now, if not I'll have to get a new one.
OK if you look at the circuit diagram I sent you there is a four way connector on the pcb with cables going black (4) red (3) black (2) black (black) have you got that?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yep got it
OK well done, not only have you learned how to use a new multimeter, you can now do voltage tests and continuity. Well done for sticking with it. You have now found the fault which was the thermal overload. The part number for the new part that you require is either T093026 or 093026 which you can get either online from one of the distributors or use this link ~
Copy and past it in and that is the correct one for your oven.
Having now concluded our chat, would you kindly rate the service given to you using the star ratings at the top, this allows me to shut down the job on the system whilst giving you access to further questions on a free of charge basis. Its been a pleasure working with you and once again thank you for using JA - Have a great evening.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Ok thanks but that is for a oven isn't it? This is a dryer or is it the same part? Is this it in the pic?
Sorry posted that in the wrong section - also doing a oven at the same time. Back to you, can you put your meter across the two cables - black (4) and red (3) and tell me what voltage you have?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Ha ha I have 0v
sorry should have said with door closed and dryer working test the voltage.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
I still have 0v across red and black
OK if you look across the other side of the board you will see a plug in section with only three wires connected one is a single yellow and the other two are side by side in the plug.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Got it
Put your meter on resistance measurements and stick the probes in the end of the plug where the two wires are together and tell me what you get.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Unplugged 33.6 ohms
OK that seems about right, to recap, you have no voltages coming out of the power board although the thermistor that measures the heat seems to be functioning, you tell me that you have a circuit through the heater and back to the board so that tells us that the wiring is OK to and from the heater you just dont have any power leaving the board. I think we have to conclude that the main board is knackered and will require replacement - cost of it is about £35 or there about. You problem is if anyone has one in stock.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Damn, probably better to buy a new dryer then
Well we gave it a good testing many would have scrapped it without checking anyway my friend we did our best. Would you now kindly rate the help given by using the stars in the top of the page. This lets me close down the job on the system but once done allows you to ask further questions if needed free of charge. Thank you for using JA and have a good evening.
Dales-Electronic and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Ok thanks for your help, will do it now
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Just one last question what make of dryer would you recommend? As I don't really like Hoover products anymore
To be honest for a dryer that is easy to repair, cheap parts and technical information I would go for a Crosslee or White Knight (its tradename) go for a standard vented with no bells and whistles just a electro mechanical timer. Made in the UK 'does what it says on the tin' as soon as you get into electronics which dont like steam and heat you're in trouble.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thankyou much appreciated
Stay away from Hotpoint they have just started a massive product recall on their dryers.