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Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1498
Experience:  I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
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I have an Elecrolux built in undercounter Fridge and have changed

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I have an Elecrolux built in undercounter Fridge and have changed the thermostat as it hasn't been running very cold for some time now. The new stat has cure the cold issue but I have another problem now! I changed the thermostat initially and managed to short the probe out on the spring mechanism for the interior light switch bar that acts on the door edge when opening and closing the door. So a further new thermostat and a new fuse, new bulb and careful reassembly has got it back up and running, cured my cold running issues but now the lamp won't light when I open the door. I have taken the stat/lamp/connection assembly apart and checked continuity round the circuits and all seems to be good. I have checked the bulb in a table lamp and that's good too. So I'm now stumped. Why won't the interior light operate? Is there a fuse in the fridge somewhere hidden away? Any clues please?
Could you kindly let me have the pnc or product code (not the model number) for your refrigerator please.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
It's a 2006 ERU 1472, product number###-##-#### ***** number 63100251. Hope this gives you what you need? Rgds, Paul
OK these are awful things, first thing to do is power off and then tighten up the bulb as hard as you can, they have a habit of only going sofar in. Do you have any means of checking a voltage ie a multimeter?
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi. In swapping over the stat I have checked out the bulb connections, as the whole housing comes apart, and the circuitry from the connector block terminals etc seem good. There's no obvious reason why the bulb won't light. I have had 3 different bulbs, tweaked the bulb connector 'tabs' to tighten them against the body of the bulb, cleaned the bulb contact areas and metered out the circuits, all of which appear fine. The incoming power connector has 4 wires. I'm assuming there's an earth, neutral, live and switched live for the stat. The bulb seems to work off an embedded circuit in the plastic stat/bulb/connector housing, operated via an arm that reaches towards the fridge door that then acts when the door is opened. The end of this arm has a small round pin through it and is spring loaded so that it makes contact with the circuit board when the door is opened, closing the circuit. I have cleaned the pin, it's circuit board contacts etc. but all to no effect. I might add that I'm a trained domestic installation electrician so have some basic knowledge. The bulb not working defies everything I have checked out, apart from the incoming voltage. However, the fridge is working and the stat works so assuming there's only 1 x incoming mains voltage on that connector block then the power supply isn't the issue. I can't see any breaks on the printed circuit board and as mentioned it meters out fine all the way from the bulb to the connector block. Do you have any knowledge on the connector block wiring? If it's anything other that earth, live, switched live, neutral then maybe I'm missing something and if so I could perhaps test that out. Ta, being driven mad Paul
Connections on the thermostat should be 6 = live in, 4 = live out switched 3 = auxillary usually the light. I have had this in the past too, it is usually the actual switch housing assembly. It will meter out using 15 volts but fails to carry 220/240 needed by the lamp.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Does that mean I probably need a new switch housing assembly?
Herewith link to the part you require -
Would you now kindly rate the information given by selecting from the star system at the top of the page, once done all further questions are free of charge. Thank you for using JA and have a good evening ~ Ian
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