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Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1466
Experience:  I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
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How simple is it to fit new dampers or Shock Absorbers to an

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How simple is it to fit new dampers or Shock Absorbers to an Indesit washing machine
What is the model number and then I can check which set of dampers are fitted - Ian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
WIL 103
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am 72, fairly fit, science teacher before retiring, have C & G in Electrical Installation, done all previous repairs to washers but never had to fit new dampers. Looks to me like they need new fixings/inserts at top and bottom (4 in all) but the replacements available on line seem only to contain two. Also, just not sure there is enough access to get at the fixings.
Sorry for delay, had to go out and do a repair, give me a short while and I will come back to you once I have the details - Ian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Great stuff, thanks for letting me know.Richard
OK its not to difficult but you may need a friend to help you with part of it - a. Unplug/disconnect from the electric water & drainage.b. Remove and discard to the sink the soap dispenserc. Carefully lay the appliance on its back (help here)d. Undo the 10mm (I think) nut from under the base where the shock absorber is bolted. (both sides)e. Push up the lower shock absorber and depressing the locking clip (top of shock absorber) wiggle the top plastic pin out of the drum holder (part of the drum assembly) - that removes the shocks. The kit that I see has two pins, two shock absorbers and two base mounting clips. Re assembly is the reverse but when you push the new plastic pins in, push fully home and then pull it backwards to engage the locking clip.Come back to me if you require further help, In the meantime would you kindly rate the informations given by selecting from the star rating system at the top of the page. Once done all further questions are free of charge so feel free to ask away. Thank you for using JA and have a great afternoon.
Dales-Electronic and other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Many thanks for the rating and do come back to me if you get stuck - Ian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Dave,The new shocks have arrived with fitting so I've started work BUT your instruction (e) says '... depressing the locking clip (top of shock absorber) wiggle the plastic pin out of the drum holder ...' I see no 'locking clip' unless you mean what appears to be the end of the plastic pin which has four small, sloping pieces protruding from the drum holder. How would you suggest I might depress these whilst 'wiggling the top plastic pin out of the drum holder'? There appears to be no 'give' in the four small lugs or 'pieces' referred to before.
OK have they sent you new locking pins with a square head at one end?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No, the new ones have round heads with a raised piece at the other end that looks as though it will lock the pin in place. The existing pins appear to have heads that are quite flat and square. My initial problem, of course, is with extracting the old pins.
Oh you have the old pins fitted. This is how I do it, can you see that the square headed pin splits at the other end?
It splits 4 ways and then a locking peg is knocked into the split end - have you got that?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I shall have to turn the machine completely over in order to see because at present the square end is underneath. I'll do that now and see what I can see.
Give me you phone number and I'll call you and talk you through it.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, yes, that's what I've got. I've pulled the central pin up as far as it will come using long nosed pliers. Thanks for offer of call. No is 01580 764239
Good luck.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi Ian (sorry about the 'Dave' before),Looks like I'm going to have to abandon this project. I have inserted the blade of a small screw driver as far as it will go into one of the small channels down the side of the white nylon pin (which, at the other (square) end has the central peg that I was previously able to extract about 2cm) BUT although it is a small screw driver there is no possibility of getting at it with even a small hammer because there is only about 5cm between the top of the screw driver and the concrete weight on the drum. Even with no screw driver I'd be hard pressed to get a hammer head in there and hit it with any force. I have tried levering with a quarter inch thick steel strip, using the strip and other metal objects to bridge between the top of the screw driver handle and then using a hammer to hit the strip as near to the screw driver as possible but all to no avail. It will not enter more than about 1.5 or maybe 2.0cm. The machine is not exactly new and I don't really want to invest in call-out charges etc so even though I've had to buy the new shock absorbers it looks as though I may have to admit defeat unless you have any last minute ideas about how I might get these pegs and pins out.
OK here is another way of doing it. Get a hacksaw blade and cut between the top of the shock absorber and the mounting point cutting through the peg - tricky but not impossible. Once you have cut through you can force out the squared end in one direction and then the locking peg in the other - Ian
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, thanks Ian, I'll give it a go.Richard
The major thing is to protect the mountings on the drum itself, doesnt matter if you smash the pins or shocker as you are replacing these anyway.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK Thanks again Ian, ne shocks now in position (!) Just one last question. Sounds like a silly one I know, but just in case, presumably it doesn't matter whether I push the new pins in from the top of the mounting bracket or from the bottom. The retaining lug on the new pin just goes behind the second part of the bracket flange and both flanges on each bracket appear to be identical so it will be OK to push them through from what is the top to me it doesn't matter because top and bottom have the same ability to retain the lug.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
'ne' = 'new' of course - typo.
No not at all whichever is easiest for you.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
All that for nothing Ian, the first shock went back perfectly, the second was almost there and then the flange broke off at the rear. I nearly cried!Thanks for all your help, you were very good and stuck with me but in the end I think the nylon must have become just too brittle.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I've reassembled it all with one shock held by a single flange so it might survive long enough for me to get a replacement I suppose. Always look on the bright side they tell me!!
In this case I would put a nut and bolt through it rather than let it flex on the pin. at least if you tighten that down good and hard there will only be movement in the shocker rather than the remaining flange part.