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Dales-Electronic, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1495
Experience:  I am a Home Appliance / Refrigeration Technician of 25yrs+ with my own business and for multi-brand national companies.
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My BR127B fridge/freezer keeps freezing up the contents of

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My BR127B fridge/freezer keeps freezing up the contents of the fridge. I think the thermostat is faulty. How do I replace / repair it

Would you kindly check the model number please, I dont have that one listed>

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
That is the correct model nunber
Baumatic BR27B Fridge/FreezerIf you don't have the details we'll leave it and refund the answer fee please The thanks

OK on this model there is no thermostat it is controlled by electronic sensors feeding information back to a central control pcb in the top facia area. First question is does your version have a fan in the top of the fridge and is it spinning when you open the door (there are two versions of this model one with one without)

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I don't think it has a fan. There's no vents etc. Just a light in the top of the fridge ceiling.

OK thank you can you tell me what settings you have on the freezer display, temperature wise?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The setting is midway doesn't make any difference where the setting is pointed. If you turn it right down it doesn't go off. There's no real display just a green light. The fridge has compressor on all the time. Ice builds up to about 1 inch thick. And we chisel it off. Takes about a week to build up again. Do you think replacing the PCB would do the trick?

OK let me explain how it all works and then you can make an educated decision. Simplified you have two cooled areas, the fridge compartment and the freezer compartment. Refrigerant is passed into each seperate compartment via a two-way valve at the back which is controlled by the electronic pcb at the front. This pcb measures the temperature using electronic sensors called thermistors whos resistance value changes dependent upon temperature. The most usual faults with these is either -

a. The valve burns out.

b. The pcb is faulty or

c. One or more of the sensors fails.

In order, usually if you have a look at the electronic board on top of the valve you can see if it has burnt out, however to replace this you need to be a refrigeration engineers as the pipes have to be cut, a new valve brazed in and then recharged with refrigerant. The PCB is just a direct replacement, one out on in (usually there is no sign of damage). Finally you can check the sensors out with a multimeter if you have one but these are the most reliable of the components. You biggest issue is do you have the tools to do it and can you get the parts even if you do.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The electronic board on top of the valve, I assume that is on back somewhere haven't if it out of the housing as yet. If it is that I cannot do it. I am no engineer I know how to replace the pcB on the tiny panel and although this is discontinued I have found one. Wouldn't mind some guidance how to test the sensor with a multimeter which I do have.

OK if you take the pcb out you will see a white block on the right hand side with either 6 or 8 small cables connected - rather than the other side which has larger cables - the resistance (remember this is dependent on temperature) should be around 2K ohms. You can test them out individually and if you have one that is faulty it will show up as open circuit or a dead short.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Great. So there are five smaller cables two white two grey and one back. When I test the White that has sensor in the cavity with the pcB I get a reading of 1.97. The other white one which I think goes into the back of the fridge itself reads 14.78. That's with the meter on 20K. At 2k I can't get a reading out of the one to the fridge itself. Hope that makes sense.

Are you shoving the probes in the back of the connector, its sometimes difficult to get them to connect. But you really need something out of the third one - kindly recheck.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have readings from both the two white ones. Tried again on all 5 cables the two white ones get something. Though one goes back to 1. Almost straight away. The grey one and black one flash a reading and then go to 1.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have lifted setting to 200k and get readings from all 5 wires. There are little windows in the side of the pug to get a better connection. So think they are ok.

OK next thing is to check the valve on the back but thats a job for when you have time, not an easy job if you havent done it too often.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok. Thank you for your help so far. Are there any instructions I can find on how to do that. Won't be able to do that until next weekend probably

Mark up the valve cables, you will have to remove the cover to do this. Check the pcb for damage, Once you have these checked see if you are getting a voltage at the cable ends.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok. Thank you. Will have to come back to you later in the week. I'll rate you now if you need me too.

If you could that would be great - then just come back to me when you're ready to go again.

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