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Rob, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 420
Experience:  20 yrs. experience with a major worldwide manufacturer.
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Samsung fridge freezer model: RSA1UTMG Built in January 2016

Customer Question

Samsung fridge freezer model: RSA1UTMG
Built in January 2016 it says, never used and in new condition but has been stored in a storage locker until this day.
fridge freezer cools/freezes down normally to the set temps but then warming up after that. numbers on the door saying that internal temps were cooler than they were. Turning it off and on corrected the problem but this only restarted the cycle. Freezer seems to work for about 4-6 hours before it just warms up. I have noticed a permant red light comes on the main board when it starts to go wrong.
What I have done:
I have replaced all the sensors inside.
I ordered a new main board from well known online parts company. It came but with not all parts soldiered to the board so it had to go back. They are now out of stock so I brought a board listed as brand new on eBay but same problem. Maybe really bad luck this board is maybe brand new but pulled off a machine that had an issue I dunno.
Am I going on the right direction? Or could this be something else?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  JamesI replied 1 year ago.

Hi Liam, this sounds like a failed temp sensor.

Its detecting when first switched on its too warm so starts the cooling process, then it reaches say -18 in the freezer at which point the sensor stops responding, at this point the fridge is told its still -18 but in reality the fridge is warming back up.

The fridge will be detecting this as a fault since it knows the temp should be fluctuating and hence why the master alarm light is on, this will need an engineer to attend, in order to rule out its not the PCB incorrectly reading the board, but 70% of the time its the sensor at fault.

Should you like me to recommend a suitable engineer in your area please provide me with your postcode (this may be Samsung depending on how easy it is to source spares).


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
But I replaced all sensors with official sensors from Samsung
Expert:  JamesI replied 1 year ago.

You are on the right tracks, apologies I didnt see the second part to your question.

If the sensors have been replaced it must be the PCB, most likely a faulty relay, if your changing the PCB in the majority of cases you need to ensure your buying a programmed board, as this may be why the previous one didnt work as desired.

The PCB's are rather expensive, my suggestion would be to look to pay for a repair and protect plan which is around £150 from someone like D&G, they will cover the cost of replacing the faulty PCB, and give you a further years warranty, as the challenge with replacing the PCB yourself is that you need the specific engineer manual for the PCB to programme it (as Samsung dont have standard instructions for all their models)

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
majority of cases, ok well I need to ask if this board comes programmed or not as I was told originally it was a straight swop.
Expert:  JamesI replied 1 year ago.

Never heard eSpares say anything other than its a straight swap :-)

If the board you have is pre-programmed the only other component it can be is the compressor which is overheating and failing, but think its unlikely, the way to test it is to monitor the voltage going out of the PCB to the compressor when you turn it on for the first time then the voltage after a few hours and its reach temp (and the compressor has stopped), and then again when the red light comes on if the PCB isnt outputting voltage it shows it must be the PCB.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok that I can check. I know the compressor is working and the fan, if they are working correctly is another matter but will test that first.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Well here are my results:16:20 turn on 142v, 153v after 10 min
17:20 went off
004 volts, no light on board.
Compressor and fan off
No defrost heater on,
Compressor temp 42c
Fridge freezer down to temp, steamy cold in freezer.
17;38 back on, 140v, 2 mins later 145v steady
Light on
Compressor on
Fan on at 17.43,
Compressor temp 17:50: 43c
Coils temp: 3318:12 off , board light off.
004 v
Compressor off but fan on
Temp of compressor 40c
Compressor Fan off 18:13
Coil temp 24
No defrost heater on
Freezer frozen
18:18 compressor temp : 33-35c18:25 back on, 140 v, 2 min later 145, jump to 147 for 30 seconds now 146."v.
steady at 18:30, 145 v
Compressor on temp 38
Compressor Fan on at: 18:30
Coil 28c
Compressor temp 38c
Coil 30c at 18:37
Compressor 38c
18:51: compressor temp 35
19:00 compressor 31c
19:12 compressor 28c
Coil 19c
19:18 voltage 147 steady20:26
Compressor 23c
Coil 18c
Freezer still frozenEverything been the same up to 20:40
Voltage 147 slight increase to 148 few mins.
Compressor 24c21:00 voltage 148v flicker 149v
Very slight defrost started as ice tray no longer stuck to bottom of freezer shelf and slight moisture
Compressor 24c
Coil 19cBoard off 21:07
004 volts
Compressor off
24c compressor
Coil 19
Defrost heater on
Relays clickingDefrost heater 47c at best shot through bars with heat sensor gun21:27 relay click
21:29 back on voltage 142
21:33 voltage 148
Temps coil 19
Compressor 24
21:44 voltage 146
21:49 voltage 145-146
21:49 relay click twice
22:08 relay click twice in 2 mins
22:09 relay click
22:16 on total melt down, defrostingSeems everything goes wrong after defrost heater comes on. 3 speed compressor but hard to tell what speed it is running at.
Expert:  JamesI replied 1 year ago.

Hi Liam,

Thank you for the input, to me it sounds like this is a PCB fault, as its not controlling the defrost element properly.

I would certainly be inclined to go for a repair and protect option, as this will be a costly repair and very time consuming.