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Mike, Technician
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 39198
Experience:  Tech Expert
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My son has a Proton Satria Neo GSX 1.3. The immobiliser is

Customer Question

My son has a Proton Satria Neo GSX 1.3. The immobiliser is locked on. Can you advise what sequence I have to go through to switch it off? Ever hopeful - Ben.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Car
Expert:  Mike replied 2 years ago.
Hello and Welcome..
My name is ***** ***** Im happy to help / advise..
Sorry to see you have had a wait..
Can you tell me what you have done / tried so far.. perhaps since asking your question -?
Too - what is the background to this - how did this happen ?
Also - are you sure its the immobiliser - what are the symptoms / what lights on etc>?
Please also give me the cars FULL reg -
Rgds, MIKE.......................
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi Mike,

The reg is: PN07GXK.

The car cut out in the fast lane of the M5. He says 80 to 85mph.

RAC rescued - said a crank sensor was the fault. Crank sensor replaced. Mechanic friend does not like immobilisers - passed it back to me. He was adamant the immobiliser is on. I have done nothing so far.

Just put key and turned ignition for first time. Turning over, but no pick up.

When all switched on, but ignition not turned, following lights:

battery, oil, brake discs, engine problem, plus red spot above tackometer.


Expert:  Mike replied 2 years ago.
Hello there Ben -
Thank you for your reply and info - First, my sincere apologies for the delay in getting back to you , Im afraid I have been off with illness for a time..Im sorry about that .
-- Ok with this issue Ben, the first thing to say is the immobiliser would not have caused the initial breakdown, the crank sensor would if it failed yes, but further too - there's little reason for the immobiliser to have come on now.. So.. and especially as there has been a delay with me getting back to you can I just ask -have you meantime made any progress with it - and two.. do you have any diagnostic equipment / have you had any plug in diagnostics done at all - and if so, with what results?
-- Rgds - MIKE...................
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi Mike,

No plug in diagnostics done since the RAC recovered the vehicle. They diagnosed the crank sensor. Sensor replaced. Car turns over, will not start.

Cheers ***** *****

Expert:  Mike replied 2 years ago.
Hi there Ben - Thank you for your reply / info.. Sorry I wasn't on last eve..Its odd that they should diagnose the crank sensor - then a replacement not work.. I take it it was a new, not 2nd hand one.. For them to diagnose that, they must have not seen a signal from it.. that is..if they tested it properley - and didnt just hazard a guess...Whats going to be needed now then Ben is to go through it..checking for the basic - ie, ign / spark at the plugs - and fuel supply - to the engine...and then through to the cylinders.I dont know what you have by way of experience and test equipment etc.. Ideally - it should be tested with plug in equipment first , but usually an owner does not have that equipment.. I imagine you don't neither.. so - the first thng is to check for a spark at the plugs Ben.To do this - remove the plugs - reconnect them to the leads - earth the metal body of the plugs to the engine - use a lead / wire or even held firmly against a metal part of the engine ( using insulated pliers / tools ).. then have someone crank the engine - you should see a healthy spark at the tip of the plugs.. If you have that - the crank sensor etc is ok. If not.. then you need to visually check that sensor....and check the wiring / connector...and check it - follow the wiring right back up through the loom checking it for any cable damage etc... You may find the cable is damaged at some point ..If you find nothing then you are into proper test routines Ben with at least a meter to use - I can talk you through as needed.. The fault then would be either the sensor... its circuit - the coil pack or the Ecu.. ( main computer)If you do get spark as above- then you have to check for fuel supply.. To do this you check at the fuel rail... although a tip is... 2 birds at once as they say - before you remove the plugs as above.. crank the engine as if to start it several times - THEN remove the plugs straight away... check to see if the ends are wet with fuel .. they should look wet and smell of fuel. If they are dry - thats a good indicator of fuel issues..If they are dry you need to check at the fuel railt for fuel up to the engine - be careful its pressurised.. so protect your eyes - no naked flames etc.SOme rails have like a bicycle valve on them that you will see ( this is for a test gauge ) but you can press it.. it should spurt fuel wildly - if it does, fuel is generally there - but check at the feed pipe for a supply... Remove and switch on ( pipe in a jar )... you should get a jet of fuel. If not - crank the engine on the key... if you get fuel.. but the plugs are dry.. you then have identified a electrical issue in the injector circuit - so you then have either a relay fault - wiring issue - or, main ecu fault.If you dont get fuel - the fuel pump circuit needs to be checked - for either blockages, relay fault to the pump or failed pump.Working through as above Ben should trace the fault down for you - or at least get you to where you will need plug on test equipment.--This all assumes the RAC checked the timing belt / chain drive hasn't failed -- I really would think so - but bear that in mind too.Let me know how you go..and / or let me know if you need anything further on this..~~~~ Meantime - Please do click on the "Exc / Ok rating" for me at this time.. "Thank you" in advance for that ... Note that you can get back to me anytime at all after doing the rating - it doesn't close you out.-- Best Rgds, MIKE.