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Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 22736
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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I have a 2006 VW Golf Plus. It suddenly started

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I have a 2006 VW Golf Plus. It suddenly started "losing power" when I need to make it up a hill or accelerate to overtake, revving up to 3000 rpm before changing gear, when I tried to accelerate. With the accelerator pushed down to the floor it was like it had no power to speed up.
I have taken the car to an automatic gear box specialist who scanned for fault codes and found fault codes for Glow Plugs 3 and 4 and the Boost Pressure Sensor. He subsequently cleared the codes, fitted 4 new Glow Plugs and a new MAP Sensor, and said it was then ok at the time of road testing.
The situation is now worse as the car revs us to 4000 rpm before changing gear.
I have spoken to my brother-in-law who has said it could also be :-
A. Low gear box oil?
B. Clogged filter maybe full of particles?
C. Could need a Filter and oil change?
D. Automatic transmission fluid?
I just need to get this sorted and don't want to spend another huge amount of money for no results.
Any advice you could give me would be very much appreciated.
Hello I'd agree that the next thing to do is check the fluid level in the gearbox, as if low or if it dirty this will lower the oil pressure inside the box and slow down shifts and generally make the gearbox sluggishif just afluid change doesn't help then the next step is to remove the sump pan, clean out the filter screens and then replenish the fluid
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hey Matt,,
Thanks very much for this. It's good to get an informed second opinion. Very much appreciated!
I don't suppose you have any idea how many "man hours" both of these two jobs would take? I realise that may be a ridiculous question, but I want to go into this next phase of work on the car with as much information as possible!
Am also wondering whether to go back to the gent who did the first tests or whether to head straight to the VW dealer. Will have to think on that one. Someone said they charge exorbitantly, but I want the job done really well and sorted.
Thanks Matt!
Hello to drain and refresh the fluid is about an hours labour Plus the cost of the fluid (£30 or so)if the sump pan has to come off then allows for 3 hours for the complete joband dealers labour rate will be about twice that of your small independent garage so about £90-100 / hour for the dealer?I woudl suggest the best option is to find a VW independent specialist in your area as this usually means you get good service and dealer know how at a much better labour rate
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks VERY much once again Matt!
I've followed your advice and done a search for an independent garage as you suggested. I've found one which is a member of the RMI (Retail Motor Industry Federation) and the Trust My Garage scheme, so I will contact them tomorrow and hopefully they can help.
Is there anything else you think I should ask the guys when I contact them tomorrow? Don't know if there are any other "intelligent" points I should make to them or questions I should ask?
Can't tell you how much I appreciate all of your advice! You've helped me find a way forward!!
Will wait for this last response and then give you a TOP rating!
Thanks again!!
Hello Sam glad to have helpedthe only other possible cause is an air leak after the MAF (mass airflow) meter on the engine as this is used to measure engine load and so controls the gearshifts and how the car drives , especially at low engine speeds The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas/propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found yourleak.Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.
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