Ask a Car Question, Get an Answer ASAP!
I'd say the 1st thing to check is the state of the clutch position switch
this is located on the top of the clutch pedal in the drivers footwell
as its a simple 2 wire device its easily tested with a multimeter to confirm its switching on and off with the pedal
its used by the ECU to switch into a different strategy for gearshifts
so if its not switching this can create the issue you describe
My goal is to give you the best advice that I can and I hope that I've helped today. Please remember to rate my service by selecting from the 5 stars at the top of the screen before you leave. If you need more help, use the reply box to let me know. If you're not pleased, also let me know because rating bad does not result in a refund, there are better options. Rating now will not close this post nor prevent further repliesThanks Matt
well usually the gearshift strategy is gear specific, as each gear has a different inertia and there's different adjustments for each
and they tend to be strongest in the lower gears
try testing the switch and examining its wiring for any damage or signs of crushing / abrasion
1st check the clutch switch and then if thats OK then
This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running and a high idleAs its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak. Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident. Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.
Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open up as things expand with temperature so depending on how the leak occurs ( on a hose joint with a clamp expansion will help seal and on a vacuum hose expansion will make a leak worse) so leaks can be better or 1 vacuum leak path that you won't find with the above test is if the brake servo is leakingso try clamping off servo hose to see if this has any effect
I'd try a small independent garage whom will be more likely to listen and investigate
doesn't have to be a Renault specialist as what I'm suggesting can be tested by any competent mechanic