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Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 24139
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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CYLINDER HEAD REBUILD Assistant: What is the make/model/year

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CYLINDER HEAD REBUILD
Assistant: What is the make/model/year of your car?
Customer: PEUGEOT 206 - 2003 -TU3JP
Assistant: Are you fixing your 207 yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: YES - ADVISE NEEDED
Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: NO
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
General advise need, please.
Hello,
I've been working hard to find a Professional to assist you with your question, but sometimes finding the right Professional can take a little longer than expected.
I wonder whether you're ok with continuing to wait for an answer. If you are, please let me know and I will continue my search. If not, feel free to let me know and I will cancel this question for you.
Thank you!
Nicola

Hello

I see that you are rebuilding the cylinder head on your TU engine, what data do you need ?

can you tell me the engine size ?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hello, it's 1.4 8v. I'm just in the process of rebuilding. When I but the camshaft back in, I assume I will need to lock the camshafts sprocket again, but how do I know the timing is correct?

Hello

this data should be enough to show how the cam is timed up

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I don't have a fuel pump in the timing arrangement, mine is 1.4 petrol.

Ok try this one

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Thanks, ***** ***** don't have a belt-tightening guage, how would I be confident in the correct tension on the belt?

Well there's another option as Peugeot also went away from using the gauge and had a pointer on the tensioner instead

so if you have this on your belt then you are off and running

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Thanks Matt.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
The crankcase is still full of coolant, I would like to empty this because it looks contaminated. There is no drain plug for this, how would I go about emptying this?

the usual method is to flush the block / crankcase out with some fresh water

if you put a garden hose into the water outlet where the top hose attaches and run the hose until you get fresh water coming out of the radiator

then drain the radiator and refill with coolant / anti-freeze

Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Car
Satisfied Customers: 24139
Experience: BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
Matt and other Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I have stripped down the cylinder head removed the rad, coolant housing etc down to the crankcase where the remaining coolant is sitting and there is no drain plug on the crankcase to remove the remaining coolant.

Hmm

Ok in that case I'd say to buy a large syringe from a chemist and use that with some rubber / plastic hose to suck out the residual coolant from the water jacket holes in the fire face

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I've noticd bits of carbon and fluff from a a scotchbrite around the top of the cylinder and liner. It's gone a little sticky where I was using a bit of degreaser when cleaning the face, should and how do I remove or will it be ok?

OK, the fireface / sealing face of the cylinder block needs to be spotless, so if you don't want debris in your cooling system, stuff a load of rag into the water jacket holes and some more down each bore and then scrub the fireface clean and degrease it

then you should be good to go

forgot to say using scothbrite and brake cleaner is an effective method of cleaning it all up

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi matt I'm getting confused with the terminology. The grime I'm talking about is in the two cylinders that at thee bottom it's in the liner on top the piston crow and against the liner wall.

Hello

OK if the cylinder walls / bore surface are grimy / caked with baked on carbon then you can apply a coating of oven cleaner to soften the carbon and it should then wipe away after being left a few hours

alternatively don't worry about it as long as the engine turns over smoothly it won't make much difference to remove it or not

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Just didn't want to get anything stuck between the liner and the piston causing damage? Should I do and engine oil flush once the car is running?

Providing none of the carbon is loose / flaking off its unlikely to suddenly give an issue

If you want to remove it ( and this is the preferred option , try the oven cleaner / degreaser as I've suggested as that makes it a lot easier to remove

and yes I'd agree to do an oil change / flush once its running

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It's just the bits that have fell into the jackets where the pistons are when I was cleaning up the crank case face. I cleaned one of the piston crowns and got told to leave the as it helps with sealing?? I think there has been a few bits that may have slipped between the piston and liner along with a big of degreaser when cleaning. I can't crank the pistons over because I don't have the liner clamps don't know how to approach it now.

OK I'd use the degreaser and just wipe it up best you can. providing there's nothing loose it will be fine

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I just didn't want to force anything down between liner and piston. Should I use break cleaner?

Yes use plenty of brake cleaner and some clean rags to wash it over and wipe off

then providing the rest of the mating surfaces are clean you can fit the new gasket and get the head back on

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Will I need to reoil the liner walls?
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
This is my crankcase since then I have cleaned the jacket top, basically everywhere the gasket sits.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
The cylinder to the right I cleaned the crown but got told not to do that. You can see the cap in the two bottom ones.

cleaning the piston crown won't make any difference

as long as the gasket sealing face is bright and clean I 'd just do a quick check with a edge of a steel ruler to check the fireface and that of the cylinder head are both flat and true then bolt it all up

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
should I just leave alone now. Check everything is flat bolt up and get car running, do an engine flush. I was also going to do a cooling system flush with fort bio degreaser?

both of those certainly won't hurt and are good practice

best of luck

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi Matt Hello,I am following the attached timing procedure and got down to item 11. The camshaft pin went in ok, and the flywheel bolt went in but not as far as it did previously. So as it says I started the procedure again and same thing happen, what an I doing wrong? And when I was cranking it round at certain points it felt like it lost tension and then regained the tension. Thanksb74a292d-cd8e-49de-a98f-c9659264d905_2061.4 pet camtim2.jpg

try giving the flywheel pin a little 'tap' with a small hammer as I've known the edges of the holes to sometimes get a little burred over

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Thanks. How will I know if it's not timed properly?

well

1st check is does it turn over 2 full turns of the crank without locking up.

if thats OK does it start, idle and run OK ? with expected power levels

if not then do a compression test across all 4 as they should all be within 10-15 psi of each other

if the timing is out you'll have 2 low and 2 high

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I've not started it up yet not at that stage but it does crank over by hand fine no locking up. When locking for timing should the camshaft and crank lock at the same position? When I took the head off i remember locking the crank first so when the camshaft got near the point to lock i put in the crank pin and slowly cranked until it pushed in, then I locked off the cam is this ok?

Hello

that sounds fine

if you can get both timing pins in and the belt tensioner is pointing to hte right place then you're good to go

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Is here an instr u tion on how to check/adjust the valve clearences? Thanks

the only info I have is it 0.2mm on intake an 0.4mm on exhaust

all I normally do is turn the engine over until I cna see the cam is on its heel / minimum lift and then measure / adjust the clearances so the feeler blade 'just' drags a little between cam and follower

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hello. Really need your help. Bolted everything back up topped up all fluids got battery on started it up but it started really rough. It does sound like a timing issue tbh. Where would you go from here? Thanks

Hello

if you have a compression tester try using that across all 4 cylinders

as if the timing is out you'll have 2 low cylinders and 2 high ones

if thats OK then you can check for other things like are the spark plug leads on in the right order?

are all the injectors plugged in? is it trying to run on all 4 or just 2 cylinders - check by pressing the end of a ty-wrap against each exhaust pipe in turn

if it melts then that cylinder is running

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
It's fitted with a coil pack so it only fits one way and it's fitted correctly. I don't have a compression test kit. When you start it its idles rough and you can hear it almost jumping and it makes a loud tapping sound and the stop light stays on. I did notice when I fitted the tensioner for the cambelt and turned it anticlockwise to locate the pointer in the right position it would loose the tension all of a sudden after a certain point before I could get it to the correct position is this right?

OK the cam belt tension should stay tight throughout the engine rotation

when you tightened up the tensioner pulley could you manage to keep the belt tight at the same time? As I've had it before on these that its sometimes better to overshoot on the tension when you 1st set it and then remove the crank and cam pins and turn it over 2 full turns and then reset the tension again once its all settled

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
The tensioner on the attached photo is my old one. Where my finger is at the top it says use an Allen key to rotate this in an anti clockwise direction to get the to the first cut out and use a tension pin to lock it but on mine when I rotate it get's three quaters way round and loosens of before it gets to the first notch to lock it off
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
This is the pick

you mean to turn the allen key clockwise to tighten the pulley not anti-clock correct?

as you turn it until the two pointers touch and then lock it up?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
On the diagram it says anticlockwise. There is only one pointer.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
There's arrow showing the rotation is that not anti clockwise?

looking at this video it shows you're correct, sorry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6w4RWhdTwU

the pulley is moved anti-clock to tighten

I misinterpreted the diagram

when you fitted the belt did you ensure the belt was taught along it long run between cam and crank?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
it was taught but could twist it through 90 degrees. Between finger and thumb. When you rotated it on the crank at a certain point it feels like the tension goes and then when it's pass that point it goes taut again. Not loose like the belt is loose almost like something has given way and goes back OK.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I'm gonna redo the timing from scratch. I'm goin to.pin it all back up so everything is in line compare new tensioner with old, refit and try again.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
I'm assuming as long as I crank it over and pin it all everything i's relined correctly?

Yes

pin it all up , set the belt as tight as you can on its longest run and then try again, if you have the old belt just double check the length of it against the new one too

then once its all complete turn the engine over at least twice to check its all OK

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Does it matter what order you put the belt on over the pullies? Does this affect the tension?

you should leave the tensioner until last

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Hi matt, got the car running but it sounds a little rough. I left it running but white smoke/steam was coming from the exhaust manifold the cat is all tightened up etc. Any ideas?

Hello

white smoke can be unburnt fuel or coolant making its way into combustion chamber

So 1st check to see if you're losing coolant / the header tank level is dropping

if thats OK then check over the state of the injector wiring harness and also add a bottle of injector cleaner to the tank to try and unstick a jammed injector pintle

Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Hi matt
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Back to the tensioner.
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
More I turn the tensioner anti clockwise do this keep adding tension to the belt?
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
This is the tensioner