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I see that you are rebuilding the cylinder head on your TU engine, what data do you need ?
can you tell me the engine size ?
this data should be enough to show how the cam is timed up
Ok try this one
Well there's another option as Peugeot also went away from using the gauge and had a pointer on the tensioner instead
so if you have this on your belt then you are off and running
the usual method is to flush the block / crankcase out with some fresh water
if you put a garden hose into the water outlet where the top hose attaches and run the hose until you get fresh water coming out of the radiator
then drain the radiator and refill with coolant / anti-freeze
Ok in that case I'd say to buy a large syringe from a chemist and use that with some rubber / plastic hose to suck out the residual coolant from the water jacket holes in the fire face
OK, the fireface / sealing face of the cylinder block needs to be spotless, so if you don't want debris in your cooling system, stuff a load of rag into the water jacket holes and some more down each bore and then scrub the fireface clean and degrease it
then you should be good to go
forgot to say using scothbrite and brake cleaner is an effective method of cleaning it all up
OK if the cylinder walls / bore surface are grimy / caked with baked on carbon then you can apply a coating of oven cleaner to soften the carbon and it should then wipe away after being left a few hours
alternatively don't worry about it as long as the engine turns over smoothly it won't make much difference to remove it or not
Providing none of the carbon is loose / flaking off its unlikely to suddenly give an issue
If you want to remove it ( and this is the preferred option , try the oven cleaner / degreaser as I've suggested as that makes it a lot easier to remove
and yes I'd agree to do an oil change / flush once its running
OK I'd use the degreaser and just wipe it up best you can. providing there's nothing loose it will be fine
Yes use plenty of brake cleaner and some clean rags to wash it over and wipe off
then providing the rest of the mating surfaces are clean you can fit the new gasket and get the head back on
cleaning the piston crown won't make any difference
as long as the gasket sealing face is bright and clean I 'd just do a quick check with a edge of a steel ruler to check the fireface and that of the cylinder head are both flat and true then bolt it all up
both of those certainly won't hurt and are good practice
best of luck
try giving the flywheel pin a little 'tap' with a small hammer as I've known the edges of the holes to sometimes get a little burred over
1st check is does it turn over 2 full turns of the crank without locking up.
if thats OK does it start, idle and run OK ? with expected power levels
if not then do a compression test across all 4 as they should all be within 10-15 psi of each other
if the timing is out you'll have 2 low and 2 high
that sounds fine
if you can get both timing pins in and the belt tensioner is pointing to hte right place then you're good to go
the only info I have is it 0.2mm on intake an 0.4mm on exhaust
all I normally do is turn the engine over until I cna see the cam is on its heel / minimum lift and then measure / adjust the clearances so the feeler blade 'just' drags a little between cam and follower
if you have a compression tester try using that across all 4 cylinders
as if the timing is out you'll have 2 low cylinders and 2 high ones
if thats OK then you can check for other things like are the spark plug leads on in the right order?
are all the injectors plugged in? is it trying to run on all 4 or just 2 cylinders - check by pressing the end of a ty-wrap against each exhaust pipe in turn
if it melts then that cylinder is running
OK the cam belt tension should stay tight throughout the engine rotation
when you tightened up the tensioner pulley could you manage to keep the belt tight at the same time? As I've had it before on these that its sometimes better to overshoot on the tension when you 1st set it and then remove the crank and cam pins and turn it over 2 full turns and then reset the tension again once its all settled
you mean to turn the allen key clockwise to tighten the pulley not anti-clock correct?
as you turn it until the two pointers touch and then lock it up?
looking at this video it shows you're correct, sorry
the pulley is moved anti-clock to tighten
I misinterpreted the diagram
when you fitted the belt did you ensure the belt was taught along it long run between cam and crank?
pin it all up , set the belt as tight as you can on its longest run and then try again, if you have the old belt just double check the length of it against the new one too
then once its all complete turn the engine over at least twice to check its all OK
you should leave the tensioner until last
white smoke can be unburnt fuel or coolant making its way into combustion chamber
So 1st check to see if you're losing coolant / the header tank level is dropping
if thats OK then check over the state of the injector wiring harness and also add a bottle of injector cleaner to the tank to try and unstick a jammed injector pintle