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Jane Lefler
Jane Lefler, Animal Behaviorist
Category: Dog Training
Satisfied Customers: 20177
Experience:  Dog breeder/Trainer and Behaviorist 18+ years
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I have a Yorkshire Terrier what does not like getting his hair

Customer Question

I have a Yorkshire Terrier what does not like getting his hair cut or going to the vets or in to kennels I have had tablets from the vets to try and calm him down which have not worked .
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Dog Training
Expert:  Jane Lefler replied 2 years ago.
Hi JaCustomer,

My name is Jane and I’ve been involved professionally with dogs in the health and behavioral fields for over 18 years. It will be my pleasure to work with you today.

Medications can sedate a dog and allow grooming to be done in that manner. DAP collars are also useful for calming dogs who have anxiety. They use a phermone much like a mom does to calm her pups. It helps a dog be less anxious.

The best thing is to desensitize her to the cutting process and of course obedience training. The obedience training will teach him that you are the boss and as the boss, you make the decisions as to where he goes and what happens to him. So let me start with obedience training tips and sites and then work to the other issues, though training may take care of them as well.

The following site is helpful in helping owners train their dog. Be sure and click on the link to the page on obedience at the bottom. and links on subsequent pages leading to detailed instructions.

Training works best if you train at least 30 minutes a day (two 15 minute sessions). I would start making your dog work via the Nothing in life is free program (NILF). It is outlined below.

Now to desensitize him to the grooming you will want to bring out all the things you use for grooming but don't groom him. Instead start with just having them out and reward him with hot dog slivers for not reacting. After a little while, go ahead and put the items on him but don't move them. REward good behavior. If he reacts, you are moving too quickly. Then work up to moving them over him but don't cut hair or brush, just move them over the coat. After all this desensitizing you should be able to move to grooming but take it in small doses and reward with the hotdog slices.

For going into a crate or kenne, start putting his food bowl in the back of the crate and leave the door open. If he doesn't go in the first time you feed him, get some nutrical (nutritional supplement) to give. It gives him the necessary nutrients but doesn't fill him up. He'll get hungry and go into the crate to eat. Leave the door open and keep feeding him in the crate. After he starts running in to get his food (usually a week or less), then start shutting the door behind him, BUT be prepared to open it immediately as soon as he stops eating. At this point, you should be using a command to tell him to go into the crate. I'm not too imaginative when it comes to that, I just use IN. My dogs know that IN means go in the house, get in the car, get in the bathtub or go in the crate. I point and say in and they go wherever I point at.
Once he is going in and not objecting to the door being closed, start making him stay in there for a few minutes longer until you are up to an hour or so. In most cases, when you get to this point, the dog has no problems with the crate anymore. However, NO treats unless you put them in the back of the crate for him to eat. You don't have to close the door, but he has to go into the crate to get his treats.
Until you get him trained, one method that some clients have used successfully is to leash him and feed the end of the leash through the back of the crate. Toss in a treat to the back and give a slight tug on the leash. He will probably try and back up but just hold the leash taut. Eventually he will move forward a bit. Take the slack out of the leash and toss in another treat. He will see the treats and see that going in is getting more treats added. You don't want to drag him in, you just want to use the leash to prevent him backing back up. YOu don't want to put your hands or feet on him to push him in. That gives him the opportunity to object and snap. Hopefully this won't be necessary for long.

As far as going to the vet, once he is obedience trained, he should walk on the leash anywhere you go. If he is a nipper, you might use a basket style muzzle on him to prevent bites and it certainly won't hurt in the last stages of the grooming desensitization to prevent him nipping at you to stop you actually grooming him.

Remember if you use a muzzle ever, you need to use it for no reason at all for short periods of time so the dog doesn't associate it with grooming or ging to the vet.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If you would like any additional information or have more questions please don’t hesitate to press the reply to expert or continue conversation button so I can address any issues you still have . If you do find this helpful, please take this opportunity to rate my answer.