How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Matt Your Own Question
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 22732
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
Type Your Ford Question Here...
Matt is online now

I have an 05 mk6 rwd 135hp t350 starts first time , revs all

This answer was rated:

I have an 05 mk6 rwd 135hp t350 starts first time , revs all the way but a bit sluggish response pedal down then revs , got turbo pressure , got fuel pressure , leak of injrcters gave an even 5ml in each bottle , the problem is when driving of in first just about to change into second sudden loss of power then it comes and goes bunny hopping ,kangerooing


1st check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly

If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve

Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home

Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.

If the above are all OK then try checking for airleaks after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and leans the engine out causing rough running. As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometime hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile

I'd also suggest inspecting the throttle pedal sensor for corroded contacts and damaged wiring

and finally its worth doing a compression test on all cylinders just to ensure the that the base engine is OK

Matt and other Ford Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi thanks for reply ive noticed I haven't any connection plug from loom to egr valve and ive blanked egr valve ,is there a diagram of the engine bay anywhere so I can check all pipes are in the right place . ive also noticed when im in first gear the speedo says im doing 70 mph also the battery light stays on but its charging at 14 volts



Hello Chris


you may have a grounding issue with the instrument panel thats effecting the speedo reading and causing the battery light

its also possible that this issue is effecting the ECU too

so its well worth checking the condition of the ECU ground connection, check its tight and free from corrosion and then do the same for the small earth connections that are terminated onto the enginewith ring terminals
Customer: replied 2 years ago.

Hi Matt

I have found that the fuse for the battery charging light was missing , I've noticed where the jump start access is theres a fat red wire and a smaller red wire that goes under the fuse box this wire has burnt out and broken I tried joining it back together but when you turn the key it gets hot ,when transit is ticking over and you touch wires its fine what does that wire do.

ive also noticed some relays missing ,horn , steering wheel clock springs, and glow plugs and is ecu behind expansion tank

thanks matt

ps I suppose you don't live near Carshalton you could come and have a look lolLaughing

Hello Chris

OK I'd start by replacing the missing relays - I think the small red wire may be for the horn?

possibly a previous owner has had issues with things blowing due to the wiring loom damage so thats why the relays were removed

and yes the ECU is behind the expansion tank

and sorry I'm down in northants