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Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Ford
Satisfied Customers: 22896
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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I'm the first owner of mondeo mkIV 1.8 diesel (basic model -

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Hi, I'm Peter and I'm the first owner of mondeo mkIV 1.8 diesel (basic model - no start push button), produced in 2010. Since more than 1 month I do have problems with starting the engine. It never happens in the mornings, but always when is warm engine or just warm outside. Engine starts normally but within one minute it just stops, just before that it switches of ESP. It happening 5-10 times after starting the engine and if I’m lucky finally is not switching of and then I can drive normally until I will not turn it off. I've been in many garages so far and they found errors: P0605, P060C, P060B, P0606 and U0100. In the last week I went to the ford dealer and they cannot point where problem exactly is. They errors are: U0100:00-08, P0605:00-28, P062B:00-28. This problem happened in the autumn last year 2 or 3 times and disappeared for long time till now. Will it be the same fault like the one described here: v


I'd check that you're getting full power to the glow-plugs, they pull a lot of current so take care when checking but see if the relay is clicking when the ignition is turned on first and also check the fuse if this is OK check to see if the engine earth strap is also OK.

If the plugs haven't been changed in the last 20K then they may have to be replaced.

You can test the glow-plugs with a multimeter by measuring the resistance across the plug ( between the power connection and the body) it should be around 4-8ohms if its tending to infinity / open circuit the plug is faulty or by using a clip on current clamp, either on the supply wire to glow plugs or onto engine earth, with glow plug light on you should see 15-20amps for each glow plug fitted, 4 cylinders would be approximately 60-80amps.

Also if its not injecting at all then check the connections to the crankshaft sensor, unplug it and check for corroded contacts and broken wiring, and consider fitting a new sensor - do the same for the cam position sensor

If the EGR valve is stuck open then this too can effect starting so try disconnecting it to see if this helps or changes anything

Could also be an injector leaking fuel back through the overspill pipe, so not getting enough fuel pressure to tell ECU to fire the injectors, this is trickier to find and you’ll need the garage to do a ‘run back’ test to identify which one is the issue

Lastly it’s also worth considering fitting a new fuel filter as if only slightly blocked this can lower fuel supply pressure and choke the main pump, the pump will be more sensitive to this when its cold as diesel thickens considerably with low temperatures.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Glow-plugs have been changed in last winter (less than 3k ago). All "easy accessible" connections around engine was checked and there is no sign of corrosion or damage on them, same about the wires. I've tried starting with disconnected EGR previously and it didn’t change anything, anyway if I’ll put rotations of engine to 3000rpm (just after start) and keep it, then it switches off any way... and immediately starts up again.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
After a car starts normally i can drive it without any problems for a 1000miles no fault coming up on the screen or power loss.

OK thanks for the extra information

if you haven't already then I'd replace the fuel filter and it may have developed an air leak on the fuel supply pipe from the tank to the engine. The engine has no separate lift pump and relies on the built in one in the injection pump. If a leak has developed on the fuel suction pipe then air entering the system will air lock the pump.

Try pumping up the fuel using the hand pump in the engine bay on the filter housing, then crack off / loosen each injector pipe in turn while cranking the engine and getting an assistant to operate the primer. This will expel air from the injection side and the engine should fire up. The problem will be cured by checking the supply pipe along its length for signs of leakage and repairing any you find.

If you daub each pipe joint with heavy grease and the issue goes away then wipe the grease away one at a time to highlight the problem joint

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Fuel filter needs replacing anyway (I think that hasn’t been done since I bought this car). Also I will follow your instructions about all the pipes. I think it’s going to be a problem somewhere in the wires or electronics, later on I’ll send you short movie explaining what make me think so.


just get back to me on this post

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I've made 3 movies showing the problem. You will hear when i'm turning the key. Time gaps betwen movies are just waiting times with everything sitched off. DTC C15100 showed for a first time other one (C41668) is common since problem occured - i never saw it befeore. Tommorow i'll have filter replaced, pumps and fuel injectors checked in the garage by a proffesionalist.I don't know how i've done it, but those movies (few minutes each) waight 1,3GB in total :o) so i'll upload them tommorow morning from work, coz at home i have a to slow uplink and it's taking ages.
Once i'll have this done I'll send you direct youtube links


Customer: replied 1 year ago.

thanks for the videos

the fact it restarts almost every time makes me think its not electrical and I'd really say go for a fuel filter change 1st thing

and then check if you have fuel pressure at the main injector rail as this will show if the lift pump is pulling in the fuel correctly

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
New filter fitted, all the things with fuel supply checked and are ok also no leeks anywhere. Car stil behaving the same


next step is to then disconnect the EGR valve and check that its moving freely and not stuck open

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Just finished with EGR. I took off stearing part: valve was closed and it was easy and smooth to turn it open and close. Motor from stearing is working too. I can't get to valve it self... i think it's not possible to get to it.



when you had all the other ECU related faults was the ECU ever re-programmed by a dealer or Ford garage?

as often this can fix the P605 and other comms related issues

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No it hasn't been done. I'm on the the way to a ford dealer they will do detailed inspection of all connections and devices. It's gonna be expensive but I don't see any better way at this moment.

I'd agree and that was going to be my next suggestion - ask them about doing an ECU re-flash as well as there's a history of this helping with this issue

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
They found 2 slightly broken wires above front left wheel and fixed them. But I didn't even manage to get out of garage :) I decide to leave the car with them. They said that its not gonna cost me more money, now its about their ambition to be satisfied. We shall se :o)


well that sounds promising

hopefully they'll have it all resolved for you on Monday

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Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Excellent diagnosis. That was it. After reparing 2 wires (slight scratches only) and re-programming ECU car is back in normal, without any faults. Shame that our ford specialists didn't know that from the beginnig like you. It took them 2 whole days (one week without the car for me) to sort it out.Highest rate for you Matt, thanks a lot and take care.