Home Improvement Questions? Ask a Handyman for Answers ASAP
Good afternoon, and welcome to the Technical section in JustAnswer, an independent paid question and answer platform that matches customers' questions to experts in various skills. My name is ***** ***** I'll be happy to help you today.This might take some unpicking, but it's just a case of working through things logically.First of all, do you happen to have a photo showing how the 6 wires were connected to the previous/existing light fitting?_____There's no time pressure on this topic - it will stay open to you for many days, and you can reply at any time. I will be away from my desk sometimes, but will respond as soon as I can.You might see automated adverts for phone support. I'm not available for a phone call today, but we can continue via this Q&A topic.
Is there a switch for this light fitting?And does that switch serve just one fitting?
Are those other two light fitting coming on when you close the switch?
They look like lovely dogs :-)
Yes please. Clearly, you need to stop the 6 wires from touching each other and anything metal and anything human.Do you have a photo (or notes) showing the connections as they were when the circuit breaker tripped?
Which wires are you designating as "live" and neutral"?Is there a fan in the room? Is that working?BTW, you cannot (and must not) make any assumptions about colours.
I suspect the following:red - incoming liveblack - incoming neutralbrown - switched live to fanblue - I have no idea at the moment
As a next step, I suggest the following:1. Power off the circuit.2. Connect the red and black to the live and neutral of the new light fitting.3. Make the brown and blue safe in spare terminal blocks.4. Power up and see if the light now works.
Don't use insulating tap - it just makes a gummy mess. A plastic cap will do. Just be careful.With the power off, could you also check continuity between the two G wires?
(G = green)
No don't wire the green wires to ground, as one of them seems not to be an earth.Please excuse me because I had to make some calls and now have a Zoom meeting until about 9:30pm. I'll post again after that.
I'm back - sorry for the delay. I'll just digest your latest posts...
OK. So red/black seem to be a permanent supply. That suggests that either brown or blue must be a switched live. So...1. Power off.2. Swap red with brown.3. Power up and test.
You might as well do that, yes.This defying logic at the moment, so while you do that I will re-read your earlier tests.
So to double-check...With all of the 6 wires disconnected, you had control of the wall lights with the switch - is that correct?
OK I'm confused. At 6:23pm you wrote this:"i have now checked the wall light bulbs are functioning". Could you confirm that?
OK I completely misinterpreted "the wall light bulbs are functioning".When was the last time that the wall lights were operational, i.e. actually on, and under control of the switch?
OK please bear with me...
At the moment, it seems that the blue and brown might go to the wall lights, and the neutral from those has its own route to the circuit neutral.If that's true, the 60V measurement is explained by backfeeding of the supply from the neutral of the circuit, through the lamps in the wall lights. If you were to turn off all of the other lights in all other rooms, you might find that this 60V drops to zero. That's a test you can do, but is more difficult at night.What's unexplained is how the switch is connected. For that reason I suggest powering off and taking a photo of the connections to the rear of the switch.
Hm, do those blue and brown wires have solid core conductors, or stranded?
Two wires at the switch is a common arrangement.Can you power off that circuit, and measure resistance across the brown and neutral at the light fitting, with the switch (a) open and (b) closed?
I don't think it's a good idea to try random things.
OK. I'll be around for some of the morning.
Good morning! I like your news :-)To answer your questions...1. Ground wireI strongly suspect that one of the green wires isn't a ground. If it's supposed to be, then you have a wiring fault that needs to be looked into.2. The 60 volt mysteryThis could be caused by a "borrowed neutral" from another circuit that still has power. Electricians should not do this, but some do. My general advice is that you should always treat neutral conductors with respect, because MCBs are single-pole. So when the live is isolated, the neutral remains connected to isolate onlyOr, it could indicate wiring damaged.Or, it could indicate a poor connection somewhere.____In summary, I recommend that you have an EICR carried out at some point. This is a formal inspection by a qualified and registered electrician with full documentation. It will tell you the current state of the important aspects of your installation. If you find a decent and honest electrician, it won't cost you much and is tremendous peace of mind.
You're welcome; I'm glad that I could be of some help. I hope you enjoyed your experience with JustAnswer.Have a wonderful day :-)