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Hello, this is straightforward.The T6360B has three terminals, plus neutral. Ideally you have a neutral conductor but the thermostat will still function without it, albeit less accurately.To operate a cooling system when the temperature reaches the threshold, connect the live conductor to terminal 1. Terminal 4. then provides the switched live to the cooling appliance. However, be aware that this terminal is rated at 6 Amps for a resistive load and 2 Amps for an inductive load.If you need a thermostat to provide switching at a higher current, then let me know.
You can certainly post again - this topic will stay open until your question is fully answered.Out of interest, what is the load that you'll be connecting to the thermostat?
Ah OK that's cool (see what I did there?) :-)
Good morningCould you confirm that you've connected the load to Terminal 4, not to Terminal 3?Do you have a multimeter handy?If you receive an alert of a phone call offer, you can ignore it - these are system generated and outside my control. If you wish to speak to me then you can initiate a call at any time, and I will tell you whether or not I can pick up. You won't be charged if we don't get connected.
OK. So when you get continuity from T1-T3, do you get open circuit on T1-T4?
OK. So if the thermostat isn't faulty then there is continuity on T1-T3 when the dial is showing below the current temperature.When you turn the dial clockwise to beyond the current temperature, does the thermostat click? If so, do you now get open circuit on T1-T3 and continuity on T1-T4?
My bad - my previous post was wrong, I'll clarify...It's important that all of the four conditions are true, otherwise the thermostat is faulty:
1. Thermostat set point is below current room temperature; T1-T3 open circuit.2. Thermostat set point is below current room temperature; T1-T4 continuity.3. Thermostat set point is above current room temperature; T1-T3 continuity.4. Thermostat set point is above current room temperature; T1-T4 open circuit.Could you check all four of those and let me know if any aren't true statements?
In that case the thermostat is faulty in a very strange way.However, you're lucky because you don't need to use T3. You must have nothing connected to T3.Since the T1-T4 shows open circuit when the temperature drops, and continuity when the temperature rises, that's exactly what you need. Or have I misunderstood something?
OK. Could you re-check my tests 2 & 4 above?2. Thermostat set point is below current room temperature,so turn the dial anti-clockwise;
T1-T4 should have continuity.4. Thermostat set point is above current room temperature,so turn the dial clockwise;T1-T4 should be open circuit.
To clarify:The set point is the temperature showing on the dial. So when you turn the dial fully anti-clockwise, the set point will be 10°C.In this position, if the room temperature is 20°C, then T1-T4 should have continuity (test #2).If you then turn the dial fully clockwise to 30°C, if the room temperature is still 20°C, then T1-T4 should be open circuit (test #4).
OK, so the confusion arises because we're using different definitions of "clockwise".Here are the tests without using that word:Thermostat dial is at 10°C
1. T1-T3 is open circuit.2. T1-T4 has continuity.Thermostat dial is at 30°C3. T1-T3 has continuity.4. T1-T4 is open circuit.Which of these are true statements, and which are false?
OK. So the thermostat is clearly faulty.You have the right product, but a faulty version of it. Is it brand new from a retailer?
I agree - it's faulty in a way that you can't even work around, because it will never turn off the fan. You need to return it for replacement or refund.
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