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Jake, Mitsubishi Mechanic
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 4366
Experience:  Experienced collision repair technician, Pulaski Tech graduate and DSM hobbyist.
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Greg i have a 2006 di-d 3200cc auto after diring few

greg hi i have a... Show More
greg hi i have a 2006 di-d 3200cc auto after diring for a few minutes say 5/10 in drive the netural light starts to flash and goes into limbo wont come out 0f 3rd gear if i stop for a few minutes its all right for a while again had some people look at it and there saying need new gear box possible new ECU unit and possible new solinide please help what do you think freddy
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Hi there, sorry for the delay. Have you have the TCM scanned for fault codes? Can you tell me what they were? any other symptoms at all? like tach or speedo issues?
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Jake yes they told me that i think the code was 45 on a Snap on comp and that 2nd and 5th gears were the problem syncro
might add that its some times a bit lumpy changing up and down but even now when it is running its fine for up to 20/30 minutes no other problems just would like to know were to go ie g/box , ecu, dose this box have solinides have now been told that it dose not jake im in a bit of a mess thanks freddy
Hey Freddy, the box does have solenoids, but they are not replaced individually. They are part of the control valve assembly. These CVT gearboxes can have a few different issues that cause similar symptoms to yours. One obviously being the control valve operation the other being fluid logic detection. Usually the fluid logic issues only happen after long commutes when the CVT temps reach a certain degrees. This causes the limp mode or the inability to accelerate at all. It requires an external cooler to prevent it from going into limp mode when this is the case.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Jake thanks for that when you talk about the control valve assembly are you talking about what were calling the ECU unit witch i understand is fitted behind the glove box on the passenger side if not were would i find the control valve assembly is it possible to replace ( what dose it look like ? ) thanks freddy
The control valve assembly is the valve body and solenoid assembly inside the transmission. When you remove the oil pan it is the first thing you see inside. You temp sensors, step motor, solenoids, etc are all part of the control valve.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Jake hi sorry for the delay been buzy would i be right in thinking you dont think its eny think to do with the ECU unit ? also is it very diffucult to remove/replace the control valve assembly any help would be great also were can i get a workshop manuel for this vehicle many thanks freddy
That's correct, I do not believe it's the ECU unit at fault. Changing the control valve assembly is about a 3 1/2 hour job. Requires draining the transmission so that you can remover the cover/pan to access the valve body. The process inside the transmission is not overly complicated, just hard to tell which bolts you have to remove if you don't have the manual. Usually the bolts are different lengths as well so its important to take a picture or number them if its your first time. Some valves are spring loaded, but as long as you remove the RIGHT bolts, you generally don't have to worry about the covers for the valves being released and anything falling out. You also have to be sure to remove the sensors that are not part of the valve (PNP, temp, etc). It's not entirely difficult you just have to be careful and move slowly. I don't have a manual for YOURS because your in the UK, while the vehicles are mostly identical in the US, the connectors and configurations tend to be different . I am sure you could find a good manual on EBAY (digital copy).
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
thanks jake will have a look and possibly put it in the garage will keep intoutch thanks again freddy
Your welcome, talk to you later.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Jake hi hope your well took the Shogun into a main deailer yesterday and they took the car for a test drive and
put it on there diagnostic equpment and it came back with no shown faults insomuch that they said there equpment would detect a fault on the control valve assembly or the ECU unit what they said was the oil was a bit dirty and this might be the problem so to that end they suggested changing the oil and filter when they sent me the estimate this morning there was no mention of the filter and when i spoke to them there said just change the oil well im thinking that if you change the oil its good to change the filter as well what do you think ? next question were is the filter hope you can help take care freddy
The filter is not a serviceable filter on these gear boxes. its a metal filter and screen, if you remove it one of the securing nuts is on the back side of the control valve and requires it to be removed. We NEVER replace the filters for that reason.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Jake hi so what happens if you just replace the oil do you use a flushing oil first if as they say the oil is scorched/burnt thanks freddy
if the oil is burnt, that generally indicates there is clutch material in the fluid. In this case you don't want to flush it. The reason being is the clutch material and deposits will break lose and attempt to flush out, this generally causes some valves withing the transmission to get blocked and cause issues. In a situation like this we might recommend just draining the fluid and refilling (which is simply a partial fluid replacement) or if the customer wants it all replaced, we would exchange the fluid at the cooler pipe by letting the torque converter pump the fluid out naturally.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Jake a million thanks were will i find the cooler pipe and how would i do that im also being told that the oil i should use is DIA Queen SP III, or Fuchs Titan 4400 , Amsoil Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid, how much oil will i need and what do you think of these oils have a great weekend take care freddy
Yes, the SP III Mitsubishi fluid is what you should use. The cooler pipe is the return hose from the transmission cooler to the transmission. If you do the fluid exchange at the return hose then get like 8 quarts, it will really help to have two people for this job without a machine. One to hold the return house in a 5 quart jug so you can see how much is pumping out and how much your adding. The goal is to add exactly whats pumped out back in. The check your levels at the very end and add if needed. If you just drain the pan and don't do the exchange like i mentioned, you still need to measure what drains but you won't need more than 5 quarts.
Customer reply replied 2 years ago.
Thanks a million jake have a great day take care freddy