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Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 22729
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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Help! my x trail is stalling. It occurs when you break/

Customer Question

help! my x trail is stalling. It occurs when you break/ clutch/ change gears. i can change gears without breaking and its ok so usually in the lower gears or slowing down. I can put it in neutral with the hand break on and keeps ticking over, if I try and hold it on the clutch at roundabouts etc it dies. It is not shuddering or anything just dies. No faults are showing up on the computer and I've had the following work done and the problem still exists. New injectors, new fuel regulating switch on the fuel pump, new clutch and new chain. The fuel pump has been taken out of the car and checked mechanically no problems there either. Car is just being put back together at the moment but where do we go from here. its a 2007 2.2 diesel with 130k miles. I've had it since new and always looked after it
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Nissan
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
its also been serviced, new fuel filter and brake/clutch/gear settings have been re input into the computer manually. The garage can see a spike being recorded on the computer on the fuel rail when the fault occurs but its only for a milli second and no faults are stored in the computer memory. It drives fine
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.


Start by checking the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

and if this is OK then this could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane or brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

It’s also worth cleaning the MAF sensor wires, as they can get coated with dirt over time which then offsets the reading

Use some contact cleaner or brake cleaner to spray onto the wires to remove the dirt – on no account touch the wires with anything as they are very fragile

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks, ***** ***** the garage and they had already checked all of these, so we're still looking for suggestions as to what could be causing the problem and what else to check
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.


it would also be worth checking that none of the brakes are dragging so creating a lot of extra load on the engine?

if you jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground and then turn each by hand

they should all move easily

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the brakes, clutch and gears have all been checked and are 100% and all the settings were manually re input into the computer incase there was an error there