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Hi, I'm Mike and I have 20+ years of experience in the plumbing field. I'll be glad to assist you today. Possibly the overheat stat has been tripped. It has a red button on it to reset and looks like this:
You will have to open panel cover on the box and it will be located in there. Maybe not exactly like this but similar
Do you have power at the PCB?
Very good. The pins have the voltages marked what they are supposed to be. I will be here whenever needed. Mike.
How did it go today?
Mike - There is no panel at the heater on this model - James
So no panel under the skirt panel?
Mike - I can send you a photo of the panel under the removal side piece - James
Any Update - i notice that money has been taken twice from my card and I don't seem to be any further forward with getting the hot tub working again
I had not seen that you replied until now. Any money taken would have been as a deposit. The control panel is what I was referring to. Yes there is no panel at the heater.
So sorry for the delayed response
Photo fo the control panel attached
Did you send a photo? It did not attach.
attached it and the system closed down - will try again
another close up of the electronic panel
This is the only electrical panel within the enclosure that I can find and I have had a good look with a flashlight etc.
I have double checked and two lots of money have been taken £22 each time
Where have you checked for voltage? Have you traced where the control connects and checked the voltage there?
I do not know about the financials. Have you opened other questions? Is this the only one?
Did you sign up for a subscription?
I think you have the option to pay by question or have a subscription. Do you want me to have someone contact you about that first?
Before we proceed?
Checked for voltage on the bottom left white cable commming into the panel containing twin and earth. Checked voltage at terminals L and N clearly seen in the second photo.
The issue is the control is not getting voltage so are you able to check the voltage going to the control?
Also this has happened several times and Sally has called out the repairman - they replaced the parts saying there was no reset option on this model - I find that incredible given the cost of a reset module against the total cost of the hot tub....
Yes the older models have the high limit switch that is just a red button. Did the repair man replace the board to correct the fault?
The panel is getting the right voltage as described; are these voltages to be checked on this electronic panel and if so where?
i did not see the repairman at work but i am told that he replaced the heater and the pump at separate visits but please note that the hot tub was functioning for weeks between repairs
Yes there is voltage coming in that has been confirmed. The control is not coming on. Can you trace where the control connects to the board and check to see if there is voltage getting to the controller. I think it is the gray cable with the green brown and white. The voltages are marked where the cables connect.
Do you have any surge protection?
no surge protection
That may explain the issues you are having.
my experience in the oil industry would suggest that a unit of this cost would have built in surge protection
what type of surgeprotection would you recommend?
i cannot measure today but please clarify as there are two brown, blue and green - the set at the bottom right are covered connectors suggesting 240v
That is where I am unsure. I am in the US so I am not as familiar with voltages there. The wire colours are different than ours.
Do you have any electrician friends who can help you check the voltages?
ok that explains a few things
I can opt out and we can see if another expert will pick up on the question. I can also notify customer service you may have some billing questions.
what controller are you referencing - do you know where it is located on thepanel or wgat the numbering is???
You said at the beginning that there was no power on the control panel, correct?
Isn't that the original problem?
sorry, in my original description I stated that I check the voltage at the control panel (meaning this electronic panel in the pictures I sent) and it is correct 240volts.
I probably confused matters by saying that leaving the ssytem without power failed to reset/ restore the system and there were no indications on the control panel (meaning the external Users control panel_
The top side panel has no indication of power then?
Hope this has clarified things.
messages crossed - there is no indication of power at the external users panel that set the temperature, the on/off for the pump etc.
A little. If you trace back where your topside controller connects to the PCB do you have power on those pins?
can't do that today but will do it when I get home - I am working away at the moment in the oil industry
I see. Well I will keep a closer eye on this thread. Before I would wait to get an email notification when a customer replies. There have been a couple instances recently that I have not gotten the notification. I started keeping a list and check daily now.
I will see if I can get somebody to check the supply to the topside panel by tracing the wiring and using the volt meter. can you advise what voltages to be expected - AC or DC and what range - my meter is manual selection for these features
I think it should be 24vac but I do have some troubles with the UK electrics. I have just started studying up on it. I know enough now to do some damage if that explains my reluctance.
OK I'll try that first 24VAC but will double check DC if there is nothing found on the AC readings. I have worked overseas for a Canadian oil company and the may thing I found was the different terms for electrical items but interestingly much of the equipment on the oilfield was UK standard. Things get unusual when Japanese electrical standard come into play; having said that nothing is much different until 3 phase is used.
will get back to you whenever I get the readings checked and double checked
I see. The wire colours are what I have trouble with also. I will chat with you then. I will keep a close eye so I don't miss your reply again.
What about surge protection - what type would you suggest?
I am going to have to research that. I will have an answer for that when you get back to me. We usually have a GCFI. I am not sure what the equivalent is.
Do you mean a GFCI (Ground Fault Curcuit Interrupter) - I am familiar with that; they are used under a similar type of technology and call a Residue Current Device - the trip if there is a very small variation in current between any protected cables typically 30mA and trip in 30ns or 80ns.
Yes that would be similar. Surge is the enemy of control boards and that could very well be the source of your issues for sure.
Surge protection here in the UK is regarded as an increase in voltage; if this occured with a RCD it would not trip as it would see the same current in all cables; I am not sure that a GFCI would trip either if the voltage went up on all incoming lines (-ve and +ve). A surge protector here would cut the electrical supply when the supply voltage increases by a set amount and within a set period. In the UK most domestic supplies are buried right into the house from the stepdown transformers - overhead lines where lightening strikes can occur are not common in domestic supplies as the overhead lines are stepped down locally through transformers and lines are buried. I know from travelling in the USofA that even in medium sized towns the electrical supplies are not buried and therefore liable to lightening strikes. Typically, computers and other similar devices would be liable to damage from such spikes; I don't know anybody who has had their computer damaged like that and only know one person who uses a specialist surge protector. The circuit board has never been repaired or replaced and Sally says this is the same problem as beofre where components were replaced. As discussed i will revert when I have checked the power supply from the main circuit board to the topside control panel.
Ok great. I just felt the need to express my ignorance of UK electrics. I will certainly be here when you need me. I will check in every day so I don't miss you again. Sorry if I was a bother.
No bother it got me thinking; asking questions and challenging things is always good otherwise we'd never improve!
True! I think I cause more trouble by admitting what my weaknesses are. Some do not appreciate it so much. I would rather make that weakness a strength. As long as I am open I don't get anybody in trouble. There is some knowledge on my end that will prove helpful.